Although the phrase originally applied to sweet wines from Hungary’s Tokaj region, Burgundy is often also called the “Wine of Kings”.
A few sips of an aristocratic Burgundy quickly shows why that opinion gained traction.
But, what delights the taste buds can cause serious havoc to the wallet.
Sadly, too many people admire top level Burgundy – and prices reflect that.
Can you, however, find examples of pinot noir (the Burgundy grape of course) that do not break the bank?
Well, yes and no.
If you want wine that matches the balance, complexity, well defined fruit and longevity of versions at their pinnacle – then there is no real short cut.
But, remember the 80:20 rule.
Sometimes you can get 80% of the way to your destination for around 20% of the cost.
Admittedly, spending does have to rise sharply to climb that final peak from good to great.
But, what if getting four fifths of the way is good enough for many purposes?
I have been testing that out with modestly priced “High Street” pinot noir.
Consequently, here are three wines that go at least 81% of the way – and, praise be, display several of the classic pinot noir characteristics.
All, however, cost less than a tenner.
The images and hyperlinks provided should help you to find them in crowded displays.
Starting in its homeland
2024 The Society’s French Pinot Noir (£8.50 at The Wine Society and 13% abv):
Let’s start in France – the variety’s spiritual home where it has been grown for 2000 or more years..
Ironically, to get a cluster of those authentic flavours yet meet price constraints, buyers have headed outside Burgundy to, in this case, Languedoc’s Aude region.
Opening with floral aromas, this brings us soft and fresh cherry, chocolate and plum flavours.
Accompanying components include a gentle texture containing baking spice and mild savoury influences.
Continuing the quest for authenticity.
2023 Extra Special North Canterbury Pinot Noir (£9.33 at Asda and 13.5%):
Once New Zealand realised what a goldmine its sauvignon could be, producers tried to emulate that success with other varieties.
A major beneficiary was pinot noir which proved well suited to areas experiencing dazzling sunlight in the South Island yet which are also cooler overall.
In this example from Canterbury, we find the pinot earthiness that many people prize and which manifests itself in this wine as a gamey and truffle background.
That joins firm acidity, subtle tannin and traces of aniseed, clove and smokiness to underpin the wine’s intense prune, loganberry and menthol foundation.
And my No.1 selection.
2024 Blueprint Romanian Pinot Noir (£7 Waitrose and 12.5%)
My top all round choice is this one that ticks many important boxes and is from a country with over 100 years’ experience with the variety.
Undoubtedly, Romania is the rising pinot noir star given its moderate climate and soils that, in parts, resemble those in Burgundy.
Smooth with minty aromas, this example is centred around juicy bramble, damson and raspberry flavours.
These are ably supported by bright acidity (but limited tannin) and hints of violets, cola and fudge.
My next post (on Monday) contains other terrific recommendations of Top Tips for you in the weekly feature of the same name.
