Although the phrase originally applied to sweet wines from Hungary’s Tokaj region, Burgundy is often also called the “Wine of Kings”.
A few sips of an aristocratic Burgundy quickly shows why that opinion gained traction.
But, what delights the taste buds can cause serious havoc to the wallet.
Sadly, too many people admire top level Burgundy – and prices reflect that.
Can you, however, find examples of pinot noir (the Burgundy grape of course) that do not break the bank?
Well, yes and no.
If you want wine that matches the balance, complexity, well defined fruit and longevity of versions at their pinnacle – then there is no real short cut.
But, remember the 80:20 rule.
Sometimes you can get 80% of the way to your destination for around 20% of the cost.
Admittedly, spending does have to rise sharply to climb that final peak from good to great.
But, what if getting four fifths of the way is good enough for many purposes?
I have been testing that out with modestly priced “High Street” pinot noir.
Consequently, here are three wines that go at least 81% of the way – and, praise be, display several of the classic pinot noir characteristics.
All, however, cost less than a tenner.
The images and hyperlinks provided should help you to find them in crowded displays.
Starting in its homeland
2024 The Society’s French Pinot Noir (£8.50 at The Wine Society and 13% abv):
Let’s start in France – the variety’s spiritual home where it has been grown for 2000 or more years..
Ironically, to get a cluster of those authentic flavours yet meet price constraints, buyers have headed outside Burgundy to, in this case, Languedoc’s Aude region.
Opening with floral aromas, this brings us soft and fresh cherry, chocolate and plum flavours.
Accompanying components include a gentle texture containing baking spice and mild savoury influences.
Continuing the quest for authenticity.
2023 Extra Special North Canterbury Pinot Noir (£9.33 at Asda and 13.5%):
Once New Zealand realised what a goldmine its sauvignon could be, producers tried to emulate that success with other varieties.
A major beneficiary was pinot noir which proved well suited to areas experiencing dazzling sunlight in the South Island yet which are also cooler overall.
In this example from Canterbury, we find the pinot earthiness that many people prize and which manifests itself in this wine as a gamey and truffle background.
That joins firm acidity, subtle tannin and traces of aniseed, clove and smokiness to underpin the wine’s intense prune, loganberry and menthol foundation.
And my No.1 selection.
2024 Blueprint Romanian Pinot Noir (£7 Waitrose and 12.5%)
My top all round choice is this one that ticks many important boxes and is from a country with over 100 years’ experience with the variety.
Undoubtedly, Romania is the rising pinot noir star given its moderate climate and soils that, in parts, resemble those in Burgundy.
Smooth with minty aromas, this example is centred around juicy bramble, damson and raspberry flavours.
These are ably supported by bright acidity (but limited tannin) and hints of violets, cola and fudge.
My next post (on Monday) contains other terrific recommendations of Top Tips for you in the weekly feature of the same name.
11 responses
Thanks Brian. I love a comparative tasting and your descriptions once again give clear pointers to the characteristics of these 3 wines. I have enjoyed 2 of them but the Asda NZ PN is a new one for me. The Rumanian PN at Waitrose is competitively priced at £7 and I hope some MWWers managed to get a bottle or 2 in when I noted in comments a fortnight ago (24 April) that the entire Blueprint selection had a 20% discount until 6 May
Thank you, Keith, for the heads up. I got one. I try to avoid even walking past Waitrose but this PN at that price drew me in and I picked up 2 more as well. The Blueprint Vinho Verde was gone, sadly.
It’s slightly more expensive (£14pb if you buy six at a time) but this is really good value.
https://www.majestic.co.uk/wines/pinot-noir-domaine-de-valmoissine-09364
Bon matin Brian!
Try as I might to find that elusive Burgundy substitute I can admit to 99% failure. Notice I say ”substitute” because as you rightly say the real stuff obviously exists but is mega-pricey, and by the remit you apply here at MWW of affordability to all, that marks us hovering around that £10 a bottle these days, give or take.
So I’ve tried most everything from Romania, Chile, New Zealand, and enjoyed some of what I’ve had but seemingly if my memory holds up I didn’t keep going back to almost any of it.
Only once in recent years did I come very close for £9.95 with the 2021 vintage at TWS of their Spätburgunder Bio Rupertsberg. It was stunning and so redolent of the Côtes D’Or. I couldn’t believe my luck in at last having what I craved, albeit from Germany and not France. No matter. The following year it missed by a mile imo; so we move on! Having said that I urge anyone who is curious to give the 2022 one go to see if there’s any wish fulfilment for them, if they too look for that real Burgundy effect. It might work … other on-line reviews by some contradict me and say it does.
And so to what my research has uncovered. Grapeswise I like good Cabernet Franc from the Loire better than any Pinot Noir. For Burgundy replace with Mâconnais and Beaujolais a few clicks south and Gamay Noir grapes. But here is the kicker. Approach Pinot Noir as a stand-alone variety and as you suggest just see what is nicely produced from anywhere. Forget comparisons with Romanée-Conti, it ain’t gonna happen.
Problematic for us all is having to kiss all those frogs to even get a ”nice Pinot Noir”. I’ve had some shockers of late including an NZ WoTW bottle reduced a fiver at Aldi. Shocker isn’t fair. It smelled ultra sous bois, more farmyard than forêt straight from the bottle and only cleared its head a bit after 24 to 48 hours left to breath, it’s last. It became drinkable but not back in this house again not even at reduced price. That terrific Aldi Cairranne it was not!!
However if folks had been watching closely they would have seen that these last few mailings I have mentioned already TWS Society’s Own French Pinot Noir, not in a bottle as you point to Brian but a ‘bag in a box’ at £22 that is £7.33 a bottle. Let us presume it is exactly the same wine from ”high up in l’Aude valley, cooled by Pyrenean winds …”. Moneywise it wins hands-down at that equivalent bottle pricing. Buy a bottle to try … then the box if required. It’s very drinkable and the box is mega convenient just taking one or two small glasses, a demi carafe, as required to go with supper, keeps fresh for up to 6 weeks, alcohol consumption decreasing using this method. Simply just very pleasant French red wine that I think would disappoint few. And it’s called French Pinot Noir.
Hell, we got there in the end. Salut ….
Hi Brian, always good to have some PN recommendations!
I thought the 2023 vintage of the Society’s French PN was very good, so pleased to see that the 2024 is also on-form.
I am a big fan of the Blueprint range, in general, and, again, had drunk their 2023 vintage of the Pinot Noir. I enjoyed it, although often pick up a touch of Menthol/Eucalyptus on Eastern European and Chilean PNs, which I am not super keen on. This is a personal style preference rather than a quality statement.
However the 2023 “Exceptional by Asda” North Canterbury Pinot Noir was indeed exceptional. It was my star of a recent Asda tasting. It had a beautiful nose and managed to capture a Burgundian style but with a distinctive twist. A great buy at £9.33.
I also agree with Clarke’s Louis Latour ‘Domaine de Valmoissine’ Pinot Noir recommendation, I have much enjoyed previous vintages, and have never been disappointed with any Louis Latour wine.
I recently raided Asda’s bottom shelves for “cooking wine” for my wife – which we sample, and some get promoted to drinking status! We tried, again, the 2023 Le Manoir du Baron Pinot Noir at £4.95 – which I still think , albeit lightweight at 11% ABV, an excellent and authentic budget expression of an old world PN.
Also bought a “Nice Drop of …Tempranillo” (£4.11) and a “Nice Drop of … Sauvignon Blanc” (£4.44), both NV 11% wines. Will report back, but generally find Asda really excellent for ultra low budget wines – so there could be more promotions.
Having drunk the Waitrose Romanian PN I think that is a valid shout out. It is not going to win any medals but if you are looking for a cheaper, everyday PN this is as good as it gets at that price point, Sadly the secret is out :).
I’ve been reading your blogs for a few months now, Brian and found them informative and practical. Many thanks. I did try the Aldi French Pinot Noir a couple of weeks ago when it was their wine of the week, half price at about £6 a bottle. It was okay for the money, but I would’ve been extremely disappointed had I paid full price. I thought it tasted a bit “thin“ and actually young. Regards Milly
Thanks for joining the Comments section. In another comment, Eddie seems to have drawn a similar conclusion. Sadly, we do have to be especially careful when dealing with big discounts. There are some good wines out there but they are increasingly difficult to locate.
More ways to skin a Pinot noir than ….
Aldi’s Bowler and Brolly English rose is twice knockout … nay thrice forsooth … tis three times blessed … it’s English … it’s absolutely on the nail AND … only £7.99 for what might be termed aspirational but not costing 20 quid!!! Hard to find?? Zounds yes … ‘tis that …. A hunter gather be then …
Hi Brian. I am a new subscriber and love your work. Look forward to tasting your recommendations and of course credit you if I go on to promote the wines. Thanks and keep up the great work.
Thanks Tom – much appreciated. Well, MidWeekers, do take a look – on You Tube I think, at a BBC piece on Tom tasting a wine per mile on the London marathon for a great cause.