I hope I am not jinxing things but the warmest May I can remember has encouraged me to focus on summer wines today.
Not only are they light in style and alcohol but, under current duty regulations, the latter means they can also be lighter in price.
While Italy is home to robust, winter red wines like Barolo, it also has varieties at the opposite end of the powerhouse spectrum.
So, today, we pay a return visit to the marzemino grape – and the gentle wines it makes with, by contrast, rich flavour ranges.
Also making a return visit, is summertime riesling – and from one of the variety’s heartlands, but not in a form anyone frozen in a 30-year time warp will recognise.
Let’s just hope that the weather continues to provide the conditions that show these wines off to their very best.
Adopting my traditional format, images and, where possible, hyperlinks accompany the assessments of the wines.
So, first, that riesling.
2023 Sturmwolken Riesling (£7.25 – instead of £8.25 until 10 June – with a Nectar card at Sainsbury’s and 11% abv):
Last century, this wine’s Pfalz homeland was the source of tankerloads of dull, overly sweet rieslings but now the place is alive with creative and talented winemaking.
Instead, and with their help, you find versions of nicely textured, great value and typical modern offerings like this.
Its tropical fruit fragrances greet you enticingly and lead into a cocktail of concentrated grapefruit, melon and peach flavours.
Bright sherbet lime acidity and a long finish complete the picture of an ideal summertime white wine.
Then, on to Italy.
2024 Found Marzemino (£8 in M&S stores and at Ocado but prices may vary – and 11.5% abv):
As lovers of red Italian wines will know, Marzemino is a grape native to North Eastern Italy that flourishes in the region’s (relatively) cool climate and distinctive soils.
Despite its dark appearance, this result is light-bodied wine and delivers vibrant, juicy freshness with intense cherry, plum, and strawberry notes.
Its floral fruitiness makes it particularly refreshing for summertime, though it can be equally enjoyable all-year-round.
It neatly balances sharp acidity and mild tannins, with subtle hints of cinnamon, mint, caramel, and espresso that all add surprising complexity.
The next post (on Thursday) should provide the deferred piece on pinot gris. Hope to see you then.
7 responses
I have tried and enjoyed the Marzemino, I must get more & see if I can identify at least some of those notes & hints 😉 especially as M&S offer 10% discount on any 4 bottles.
Off on the train today to sunny Llandudno to The Wine Society’s On the Road – walkabout tasting of summer wines.
Includes new additions and focuses on Greek and Portuguese wines with a fun blind tasting of Rosé.
Shall send a postcard from the Great Orme.
OMG I’m in Llandudno. Is this open to the public?
Morning Brian and welcome back …
This less-overtly German Riesling today I’ve had before and I enjoyed it a lot, and bought it more than once especially when cheaper than it is now. I’ll have one when I’m in but wine trips to Sainsbury’s for me these days have stalled somewhat not entirely because of wines I bought there going missing but it’s a part reason. None more-so than their excellent Trentino-Alto Adige Marzemino not being available now. So having as we do a voucher to spend knowing this Veneto offering is in-store at Markies for a very decent price, I’m in for some of that.
Yes, it is lighter drinking but being of its usual nature, a delightful hit of bright cherries, perfume and mountain herbiness, I have put it high on my list for years since I worked in the Süd Tirol, Bolzano and Trento and holidayed at the northern-most end of Lake Garda. Ubiquitous there but rarer away from home base and such a pity. So, miss the Sainsbury’s one lots but great to know M&S have this Veneto to try.
Over this last week we finished that smashing TWS 2.25l wine-box of the Societies French Pinot Noir 2023 coming in at £7.33 a bottle equivalent that lasted over 4 weeks on-bench in the kitchen. Try by the bottle first perhaps, as you suggested, a couple of weeks back. That wine box was super-economic and convenient.
TWS also provided something way more expensive that we opened as well. Heinrich Pannobile Burgenland 2014 … yes! 11 years old … Zweigelt (55%) and Blaufränisch (45%). Interesting, but not enough to have it again especially at the money (Their Portuguese Setúbal red at £6.50 gives all others a run for their money first at TWS).
But here’s the thing. When I took the foil capsule off here is a GLASS bottle stopper!! I think it is a first but maybe I had one once before? Less usual for commercial offerings but maybe will appear more. Apologies if this link doesn’t work ….
://www.thebottlejarstore.co.uk
Hi Brian,
Tempted by both of your recommendations – especially at those modest ABVs.
WRT glass stoppers, I remember having one, they are often called a “vinolock”, on a bottle of 2017 Disznókő Tokaji. It was a novelty – in fact I have kept the bottle with stopper, and use it as a water bottle at table!
Hi Brian
I tried the Riesling back in 2023 and gave it a good rating on Vivino but haven’t bought it since. This maybe due to my partner who generally enjoys Riesling being put off by any strong petrol smell. Unfortunately I didn’t make any reference to aroma in my rating. I have noticed that you often mention this when describing your selections and wondered if you can recall if any petrol or kerosene smell is present this Sturmwolken Riesling.
Turned out Venue Cymru for the TWS tasting was nearer the Little Orme.Postcard from Little Orme.
Highlights:
The Society’s French Viognier 2024 £10.95
Baccolo Appassimento Bianco Puglia 2024 £8.25
Basilicata Rosato Le Ralle Alovini 2024 £10.95
Soli Pinot Noir Eduardo Miroglio 2021 £13.50 Bulgarian.
And an utterly outstanding Syrian red wine
Bargylus Grand Vin Rouge 2016 £35 which TWS are having enormous difficulty getting out of the country.
Only 30 of us there; many thanks to Ewan Murray Events Manager ,who says Hi! to Brian.