It was not hard to choose the subject of the first of this year’s producer profiles.
That post is a focus on one winemaker and seeks to highlight some great wines that he or she makes.
To set the scene, though, two stories.
A while back UK retailers sometimes invited selected producers to attend press tastings of theirs.
Usually, the invitee lurked next to their wine spiderlike ready to pounce on anyone tasting it – and assail them with a host of its technical details.
But the guy this year ignored his own wine and went round the tables tasting every other wine to see who was doing what.
That was my introduction to Jean-Claude Mas.
It was consistent with the approach of a man who forsook the world of economics and advertising to bring innovation to his family’s wine business.
His father, Paul Mas, was a grower but an early decision for Jean-Claude was to develop winemaking skills to enlarge the operation.
Next, he became obsessed with the success of new world wine thinking – to the horror of his more traditional peers.
As tongue in cheek retribution for the hard time they gave him, Mas created an innovative brand and called it the Arrogant Frog.
Predictably, Australians loved that irreverence – and the sauvignon blanc version became a best seller there.
And it remains on many of the world’s wine lists today.
His devotion to getting the best from his native Languedoc is legendary and has played a signiticant part in the region’s wine industry re-inventing itself
His “Destination Outlet” – Côte Mas near Pézenas – provides another illustration of the region’s development.
Here, though, are some of the great value wines Jean-Claude Mas produces to reflect what Languedoc can do so very well.
In the usual way, hyperlinks and pictures are used where possible to help you locate the bottle in question.
Let’s start with Viognier.
2023 Irresistible Viognier (£8 at the Co-op and 13% abv):
The Northern Rhone’s signature white wine grape, viognier, has taken brilliantly to Languedoc but the greater warmth there can introduce significant differences.
Sometimes firmer tropical fruit elements overpower the beautiful floral and textual complexity of Rhône versions, but this Languedoc option is skilfully balanced.
With a pleasantly scented opening, it is neatly centred on ripe tangerine and apricot flavours.
In addition, there are further floral influences and a firm acidity within the rounded, viscous texture that is sometimes a casualty when average temperatures rise.
And another varietal with Rhone connections.
2023 Paul Mas Marsanne (£8.97 list price at Asda, but currently £7.74 in some stores, and 13.5%):
Marsanne is another white wine Rhône grape and one that plays a major role in blends made there – often with the more fragrant roussanne.
When it goes it alone, however, the variety’s mineral and nutty features acquire prominence – although its does need carefully selected locations because excess heat easily robs it of acidity.
Once again, this example is judged to perfection with freshness and herbal aromas that help it deliver – and embellish – its rounded quince, pear and mango flavours
Those are adroitly combined with a vibrant grapefruit acidity, a savoury finish and smooth, clean mouthfeel.
NB:- The bottle pictured on the website may not match the current one shown here.
Switching to reds.
2023 Paul Mas Reserve Merlot (£9 – instead of £10 until 21 April – with a Tesco Clubcard and 14%):
I am going to stick with a varietal for the next selection but one (with only 10% of the vineyard area) that is not a major player in Languedoc- Roussillon – merlot.
However, get a high, cool site where the ripening process is slowed and good acidity is retained and the results can be brilliant – as you will see here.
Dark in colour and delightfully fragrant, this contains smooth plum, raspberry and cherry flavours.
Able support comes in the shape of good acidity and firm tannin but with traces of cedar, baking spice and chocolate too.
A blend at last.
2023 Irresistible Languedoc Rouge (£10 at the Co-op and 14%):
At the start, I expected this review to be dominated by blends because Jean-Claude and his team are such effective winemakers.
Slightly surprising, then, to have three varietals leading the pack but this blend is the real deal.
Although the bottle is coy about the precise mix, this red is led by grenache and syrah with about 10% mourvedre.
So, relish the fullness and nutty aspects on display in this GSM mix with a Languedoc accent as well as the bramble plum and raspberry flavours it contains.
Anise, oregano and other herbal or spice elements quickly join the party and are given a boost by orange based acidity and modest tannin.
Finally a wild card
2024 Côte Mas Rosorange (£10 at Waitrose and 12.5%):
Using Jean-Claude’s innovator instincts, this is a blend of conventional rosé with orange wine (white wine made in the same way as red wine with skin contact).
Presumably, the idea is to combine the delicacy of rosé with the texture of orange wine.
Broadly, two thirds of the grapes go to make conventional rosé with the remainder (macabeu, vermentino and some of the grenache gris being used) macerated separately on the skins for about a week.
Then both constituents come together for the final part of the fermentation.
Being a traditionalist, I was not blown away by the 2023 version but this new vintage seems to have wider appeal.
A local orange wine refusenik here, was actually almost addicted to the result this time.
So, enjoy the peach and rose perfume it displays and the fresh, light bodied red cherry and satsuma flavours it leads into.
All that is accentuated by sprightly acidity, rhubarb sharpness, and an intricate creamy texture with sherbet hints.
Tune in again on Monday when value at budget price points from other producers is, once more, the theme of my latest Top Tips post.
11 responses
Hi Brian & all,
We have much enjoyed many of the Paul Mas offerings, especially when on discount or specials or double dips.
NB Noticed on a email Tuesday that the current Wine special at Aldi is their Cairanne (Cote de Rhône) reduced from £8.99 to great value at £4.99 and a hearty 14.5% as well. Have much enjoyed this red when suitably discounted so stocked up yet again. Likely Limited stocks at some stores and some other of their higher priced / big name labels Wines are also now getting discounted.
Regards 🍷
Hi Richard, I took your recommendation and bought a bottle of the Cairanne, although it was slightly dearer at £5.46. What a bargain ! Absolutely delicious , we enjoyed a glass with our Beef Stroganoff dinner and I will definitely be buying another bottle. Thanks for sharing x
Great shout pour to Paul Mas here Brian. I’ve enjoyed many of his wines, but the Marsanne is particularly good and I’m heading to Asda this morning, so I’ll see if it’s on the shelves there
Terrifically helpful stuff of real interest Brian about the Paul Mas range. I was trying everything that Asda had from the range a couple of years back for not a lot of money but they have reduced what they sell now dramatically. I had to wait to be near a Waitrose to eventually get the Languedoc blended red that Asda didn’t have. Everything is as you say and I love a renegade flying in the face of tradition, French especially, and coming up with what the public are demanding in change of style, more sweet fruit instead of strident tannins. That Arrogant Frog story is priceless. So everything that is good is happening down there near Pézenas! Nice part of the world spring .. and summer.
Just to mention re Richard from Leeds’ heads up on the Cairrane at Aldi when I was in my local last I’d clocked that £4.99 price tag. I bought 6 bottles (had to go round three times!) back in December 2023, (was it as long ago as that?) when it was all over the popular press like a rash and it flew off off the shelf in minutes when they were selling it at more than a fiver below list. Even had one still remaining on the shelf until recently. So yes, £4.99 if the vintage is constant is a terrific price.
In fact some of the single bottle discounting and regular pricing at Aldi is looking good for old favourites like their Rosso Toscana and the basic Pierre Jaurant Bordeaux £5.49, Primitivo di Manduria DOC £5.99, Salice Salentino Riserva £5.99 and Côtes de Provence Rosé £6.69 to name but a few.
But can’t for the life of me find that Kooliburra SS Genache Riverland South Australia 2022 at £4,99 that Decanter was recommending this month!
Happy Easter … ciao bella …
I got into Jean-Claude’s wine when I tried the Waitrose Clairette several years ago. It was similar to a Picpoul on steroids and absolutely fab. Regrettably, it wasn’t stocked for long, but you can now get a Clairette from Majestic. I did see the CoOp’s feature on JC which was very good and you can see it on YouTube. His take on keeping wine once opened was illuminating. Last August, while in Southern France, my wife and I attended one of his Musical Soirées at his Vineyard near Pézenas. It was a lovely evening and after getting through the two glasses of wine supplied with the food, I was stunned to be able to buy another bottle at the bar for 10€. What a bargain! I have been judiciously tasting every one of his wines and have quite a few in stock.
Another wild card,
I must admit I was very sceptical about Orange wines and tried a few that did nothing for me.
However one wine changed my mind,
Lyrarakis Assyrtiko-Vidiano Orange Wine, Crete 2023/24 Majestic £12.50.
From 500m high vineyards near Herkalion and a very good winemaker.Vidiano is my favourite Greek white wine.(Liatiko is my choice of reds)
I was converted to the merits of some Orange wines and you might be too.
Paul Mas has done an amazing job of bring well-made, characterful and reliable wines to the UK – agree the Co-op-labelled Viognier is lovely; put it in this line-up along with examples from Yalumba – https://medium.com/p/6c3a4ac8dc6
Well done for putting a spotlight on Marsanne, an underrated grape, yet very versatile, since it goes well with many cuisines, the reason it is one of my favourite whites. The wine world (and us wine lovers) would be much poorer without the multi-talented, multi-award winning JCM, so nice to see him celebrated, too.
If I may Brian …
Back in the 80s when few Brits knew anything about wine other than what they liked, from what was a available over here, on early camping trips to France we discovered a new world of everything wine, none more so than labelling and names we’d never encountered before.
Unravelling the mysteries of things like Blanc-de-blanc, Fruits de Mer, Picpoul de Pinet, Passe-tout-grains, and Aligoté was a joy; Sometimes a mistake; we learn by them!
The latter two are very interesting and somewhat prescient following on from this week’s JC/Paul Mas posting and discussion on varietals like Marsanne and Viognier, from the French Rhône/Languedoc. Before we might get that far south still in Burgundy, Sâone, Yonne down to Mâcon and the like, the blend of gamay and pinot noir that is Passe-tout-grains is overlooked in Britain, no populist outlets here appear to offer any for sale.
And if we may call Aligoté a poorer man’s Chablis it is nevertheless a true white Burgundian, just isn’t chardonnay! I’d forgotten about it, and its provenance, until I spotted Hannah Crosbie in Saturday’s The Guardian talking it up that although not generally cheap enough for me to afford did make at least for interesting reading and brought memories flooding back.
Traditionally this grape was a mixer with Creme de Cassis to produce a Kir, that aperitif much loved by the French mayor of Dijon, where else, Felix Kir, after WW2, to celebrate local Burgundaian produce. This is Ms. Crosbie writing btw. I knew what a Kir was back in the day but did not realise its origins. I do now and understand more about this whole thing. Aligoté likely wasn’t considered as a stand-alone second to Chablis at all. Never got close and rather ignored for lacking in quality most of the time, except for mixing in that Kir! That’s why I could buy it cheap.
But times change as does climate and supposedly it’s being used to produce way better wine nowadays. Naturally it commands more money than what I paid for it in French supermarché 40 years ago. TWS have thrown their very considerable weight behind it with an offering at £18 in their Generation Series made by a respected vigneron Sylvain Pataille, Crosbie tells us. Must go and have a look. At that kind of money we shall wait for any developed outcome that pushes it on as a mainstream selection. I am tempted for old-times’ sake to request it as a present for Fathers’ Day!
As for Passe-tout-grains its provenance has always intrigued me and I did used to have bottles from Aldi France all those years ago that wasn’t expensive at all. Did I like or appreciate it? I can’t remember. Seduced by the name on the bottle back then. Pricked my interest. Maybe I thought cheap and cheerful. It was never first bottle in the shopping trolley in preference to a CduR Villages selling at €3. Climate change changes everything and attitudes too. I’ve not had any for years. Loved the name and still do.
Given the quest for the kind of Burgundian provenance that would set the world alight for no more than a tenner is there a place for this one, like Aligoté is trying to find? No, the ones I’m seeing are not a tenner at all. Way more money being asked. Typically the heavyweight suppliers like Justerini and Berry Bros.& Rudd have a couple of bottles but we are into typically cheaper end Cote d’Or Pinot Noir prices at over £20. So I had my chance 40 years ago … and there the story ended .. for me!
Sainsbury’s Languedoc Red and White is enjoyable and good value with 25% off. Blended by Paul Mas – I always look out for his wines.
Agreed; both are pretty sound – although I felt that the Co-op just shaded them.