Something a little different this week – and one that includes a challenge for you.
But first – advice that could well put me out of a job.
The best way to compare wines, and decide which is the better, is a “sip for sip” analysis.
Open two bottles and taste (then, ideally, spit) a sample from each bottle in turn.
It is surprising how differences (and enjoyment) surface more clearly that way than when the bottles are tasted separately and sequentially.
This is the approach I use for recommendations here and in the press.
For them, I start with three bottles and use that “sip for sip” procedure.
Now, for the challenge, I am going to encourage you to do the same with two Rioja’s from Lidl – only one of which has had much in the way of maturation.
First the process.
Step one – obviously – is to pour two glasses just a little over half full, marked so you know which is which, and:-
- Before tasting, check differences in the colour and aromas of the two wine.
- Then, take a mouthful (of, ideally, the younger) wine and consider its texture – smooth, dense, light, soft, intense etc.
- Next, think about the fruit “taste-alikes” – start in the middle of the flavour range with, say red plum flavours and decide whether this one is lighter or heavier than your memory of red plums.
- If lighter, work your way down the range through raspberry, strawberry etc down to cranberry and red currant.
- If heavier than plum flavours head the other way towards figs and prunes via blackcurrant, blackberry and mulberry.
- Think about tannin next – does it leave a coating on the inside of your cheeks or the back of your front teeth and is that coating grainy or smooth.
- Continue the process through (a) savouriness, (b) nuttiness, (c) chocolate or sweetness, (d) spices and (e) floral influences.
- Repeat the sequence (in as much detail as you like) for the other wine and compare your results.
What to expect from the more mature wine.
Rioja is a good place to consider maturation because no region takes the process more seriously, and the hierarchy there is clear.
Crianza gets two years aging – one in oak – while there is three years total aging for Reserva, rising to five for Gran Reserva.
The aim of maturation is partly to increase complexity (fruit flavours can gain depth and either subtlety or dominance).
Exposure to oak can also add yet more flavours – vanilla, chocolate and spice are common ones.
In addition, tannin influences can soften with time and overall balance can also improve and harmonise.
Look out for all or any of those elements appearing – especially in the older wine.
Caveats.
This is not, however, a precise science.
Quality and characteristics will differ between vintages so maturation is not the only variable.
Equally, grapes can come from different vineyards with, say, one specific spot preferred for wine that is expected to last.
Nevertheless, this exercise does give a good feel for the differences aging can bring.
It also helps to underline why it can be worth spending a little more on matured wine even though there is also an appealing freshness to youthful wines.
Try this for yourselves.
Unlike many Blue Peter experiments, DO try this at home.
Here are two bottles that, I think, illustrate the differences quite well.
Neither is expensive for what they are and, surprisingly, minimum unit pricing in Scotland means they are both the same price there.
See how your results compare with my impressions (although differences on how each person’s taste buds work mean there are no “right” answers).
First the youngster
2023 Cepa Lebrel Rioja Joven (£4.99 generally – but £6.59 in Scotland – at Lidl, and 13.5% abv):
This youthful option is dark in colour and opens with rose aromas.
It goes on to deliver – as its centre piece – strawberry, bramble and cherry flavours with a gentle savoury twist.
Those components are supported by bold acidity and gentle tannin together with clove, molasses and cocoa hints.
And the older one.
2019 Cepa Lebral Rioja Reserva: (£6.29 generally, but £6.59 in Scotland – at Lidl and also 13.5%):
I thought that barrel time seems to have:
- Intensified the flavours.
- Added new ones (possibly from the wood) – in this example, chocolate, vanilla, herb and cedar influences are, to me, detectable.
- Given depth to the flavour range – although the cherry and clove foundation remains.
Later Note: Although the sample I tasted was fine, reports from MidWeekers indicate a fair amount of bottle variation between samples, and suggest that the Crianza would provide a better comparison. Anyone trying this exercise may like to bear that in mind.
I hope you enjoyed this exercise and, consequently, will have an even clearer idea about what to expect from a particular wine.
After today’s focus on a specific region and retailer, it’s back to a broader sweep around great value fare in Monday’s Top Tip selections.
20 responses
Brilliant post Brian, thank you
Thanks Tom. Rioja producers deal with maturation so carefully that it seemed a pity not to put a spotlight on the subject.
Wow Brian … all those secrets and techniques given away now. Everyone will think they can be an expert!!! I’m in to Lidl this afternoon for my weekly shop and will get these two bottles and follow your instructions to the letter. Brilliant stuff. Thank you!
Heads up for Brian’s loyal readers who have not seen that Lidl’s award winning Limestone Coast Chardonnay 2023 is their wine of the week (from 19th June). I tried a bottle last week and it is hard to disagree with Decanter’s assessment that it is a steal at regular price – “combines freshness of fruit and gum-tingling acidity with a creamy body full of zesty citrus, apricot and mango”. With a whopping £1.50 off (down to £5.49) it is a bargain summer garden quaffer.
Thanks, Phil.; folk could pick up a bottle when buying those Riojas. Really appreciate your pointing out this deal.
Hello Phil Bradshaw and thank you for this heads-up on the Lidl Limestone Coast Chardonnay.
Two things then, I’d missed the endorsement in Decanter so thank you for that reminder that gives us confidence to purchase as the information comes from from that usually reliable source.
But here’s a thing about Lidl that I’d recently written to Brian about off-piste concerning unavailability of bottles depending on where in the country we are shopping.
I was totally unaware from the Lidl Weekly mag starting June 19th that there is a WOTW of any kind let alone this bottle you speak about Phil. And indeed it doesn’t feature on my Clubcard app either. Pricing differentials aside (re Scotland for instance) I said to Brian look at this publicity on-line info’ …Valpollicella Ripasso at Lidl with a discounted price last week … but not in my store! And then not another word anywhere I can find as I hunted around because the Lidl promo’ is so poor.
That website of theirs that is now hopelessly devoid of any useful information about a lot of their bottles, missing prices … check instore it says … and most importantly a mass of actual MISSING listings of bottles that are on the shelves when we go shopping but we can’t see them on-line. No other supermarket does this. Lidl can be lax and unhelpful to potential customers and their regulars like me.
Cheers now.
Hi Brian, excellent article on side by side tasting, of which I am a big fan, thanks.
I remembered that in Feb 2024 I tasted, side by side, 3 of the Lidl Rioja wines: 2022 Joven at £4.69; 2021 Crianza at £5.99; and a 2018 Reserva at £6.29.
At that time I thought the Joven was remarkable value, but the Crianza was a step up for me, and was really enjoyed. I actually preferred the Crianza over the Reserva, as the latter’s oak was a touch too prominent for my own personal preference. But that was then … the 2021 Crianza is still available, and at the same price, but could be a bit tired now? And the 2019 Reserva might be more balanced (for me) than the 2018? Who knows, perhaps MidWeekers may want to extend their tasting to 3 wines, and form their own judgements?
WRT to availability, I’ve just been to my nearest Lidl, and the Limestone Coast Chardonnay 2023 is on the shelf at the full price. But the Bitterol Aperitivo, which should be on offer at £5.29 (from £6.79) was absent. But the (Bitterol) offer extends into next week, so will try again. My wife very much enjoys a (neat) Bitterol as an aperitif.
I too find Lidl rather unreliable, as I do Asda, and Aldi, on occasions. But I guess that enhances the triumph when the desired wine is actually located!
Thanks, Richard – that expands the concept nicely.
Hi Brian,
Really good article on making wine comparing accessible ,thanks.
I have found the following wine” taste-alikes” to be useful for red wines-
Going down from heaviest, Level 5 to level 1- lightest.
Level 5 Blackberry,Liquorice,Bacon,Black pepper
Level 4 Blackcurrant, Violet,Black cherry
Level 3 Red Plum, Blueberry, chocolate
Level 2 Cranberry,Raspberry,Rose,Red cherry
Level 1 Redcurrants, almond, strawberries.
So some typical examples:
Blackberries and spice – Malbec
Currants and herbs-Cabernet Sauvignon
Berries and a touch of white chocolate- Merlot
Red fruits- Pinot Noir
Soft and juicy- Gamay
I have donned my tin hat.
There is one caveat, when compare sip tasting two wines- the better wine may not be the one you prefer.Practice makes perfect and BLIC comes in handy!
Some good rules of thumb there Paul – and I have not considered white chocolate in relation to merlot, but will now. I usually include spices in there somewhere – in a crude hierarchy of Allspice (lightest), cinnamon, clove, aniseed, nutmeg but that order is not foolproof.
Brian … hi again …. Lidl update this afternoon after my weekly shop …
Plenty of Cepa Lebrel , Jovan, Crianza and Reserva … I took all three bottles at a total of £17.27. Back in the real world of what MWW was meant to represent if I may suggest that. Affordable to most and if it’s a nice drop then everybody should be happy with such vfm.
No reduction on the De Luxe range Limestone Coast Chardonnay ** that was in a wooden crate. Nor the top shelf, Valpolicella Ripasso . And I did send you the link about the latter so no ambiguity about seeing that reduction-offer but where it exists is a mystery me.
Decanter June under its Weekday Wine section was proposing an Organic, Extra Dry, Veneto 2023 Prosecco at 88/100 points that said ”great value” at £6.49. Given a nod like that I was surprised they had any but they did. It was £6.69 being exact but will I’m sure hit the spot for tomorrows pre-tea aperitif .
I already had some Bitterol Aperitivo but got another bottle it being discounted to £5.29. I like to slosh some in Lidl’s own soda water and pretend it’s a Campari soda. I also buy the Aldi Aperini orange stuff at £6.79. Again very good value for what it is.
So very much looking forward then to ”Brian’s Challenge”. Isn’t wine fun!
** That Limestone Coast Chardonnay is a De Luxe range bottle and presumably part of the promotion several weeks back of 30% off buy 3 De Luxe bottles. I’ll be watching to see if that offer comes back on and have it then at what would be £4.90 ..more vfm. But no surprises … it isn’t even listed at Lidl’s on-line site I looked at!
Plenty of Cepa Lebrel Reserva and Limestone Chardonnay with £1.50 off with Lidl Plus card from full price of £6.99.Only a few bottles of the Joven on shelves of Wrexham town centre Lidl.
Brian,
I don’t know how you do it!
I followed your steps and could not do more than identify colour, texture, fruit and the Crianza as better.
I went back to tasting, sipping and drinking the wines as the afternoon and evening progressed and made tasting notes favouring the Crianza giving up the oak.
It took hours.
I am intrigued to know how these Rioja’s and many more wines can be reviewed in such quantity to provide your recommendations.
I guess its a bit like flying an airplane for you. Once you get a system embedded, the detail becomes much easier. However, you have identified and answered the crucial wine-related question – which one is the better?
Agree that Cepa Lebrel Reserva is a great value mature wine – I find it improves significantly with aeration. In any case, it’s also cheap enough for a student party: https://medium.com/@tomsk71/inexpensive-wines-for-a-student-party-08b79acb3155
Hi all,
Lidl fiasco – Wine of the Week Lidl Plus offer.
Two Lidl store visits to two different local stores in two weeks both resulted in similar issues.
The hoops to navigate are …
1. Is it on the shelf & so in stock ?
2. Is the offer & price showing on their Website ?
3. Is the offer available in store (or online only) ?
4. Are you within the offer week / date window ?
5. Is that specific Store in a region or area operating the Offer ? – there is no list to access to check.
Last week the manager agreed I was fully compliant and she actually typed up a complaint and a £15 coupon for the overcharge duly arrived on 6 bottles of Eddie’s Valpollicella tip.
Today after a brief chat with Manager he said item 5 applied -their store is not operating the offer & discount, so had to pay full price for Phil’s Limestone.
Strange way to maintain Customer goodwill, but good luck.
Regards 😎🍷
Hi Richard from Leeds.
I’m not best pleased for you having to go through this rigamarole to be sure but it kind of vindicates what I was saying about the problems I too encountered with Lidl on Teesside. I sometimes think in making an observation and a complaint against an operator like this those who themselves don’t encounter the problems being flagged up perhaps think it’s unjustified or we are just whinging … but not so.
As you very rightly say it was a strange way to maintain customer goodwill but more than that it looks like the Lidl right hand does not know what the Lidl left hand is doing. In short their promotional operation is pretty crap! Given MWW is a national entity for flagging up the excellence of wine I think it also needs to be a commentator on poor practice as we find it happens and give punters a heads-up when we spot it.
Best now …
Jut an update on Brian’s previously recommended Aldi, Chassaux Et Fils Costières de Nimes Blanc £ 8.99
Really good white wine.After much research the wine is made from Grenache blanc, vermentino and rousanne.Hope this clears up a bit of a mystery.
Seems it might be we missed a trick here.
The 2019 reserve Lebrel was flabby and for me close to oxidisation . Often feels that way with old Iberian reds . Very dull and lifeless in the glass.
The jovan was fresh, fruity bright
and with a slight chilling, because of the intense heat these last two days, it did well for my wife and me as a swiller with food .
But star of the show was the crianza. So pleased I stretched out for the other bottle in the range. Massive cherry fruit and only a little acidity to peke the tongue I was well impressed.
So a very nice bottle that unfortunately changes nothing of my opinion of how poor Lidl can be with their anomalous national pricing policy “supported” by an online site that tells us we have to check instore for what something might cost to buy it!!! What is THAT all about when a retailer is clearly running around with the goalposts!!! Poor form …
Disturbed to hear that Eddie. You and I seldom disagree by much on a bottle but the one I tried was fine with sound levels of acidity. I assume there is a degree of bottle variation about and have adapted the post accordingly.