Rather like the Mozart family, sometimes the fathers of famous sons do not get the recognition they deserve.
So it is with the cabernet family.
Papa cabernet franc struck up a successful relationship with a white grape – sauvignon blanc.
In the modern way, the issue took the names of them both – but, more importantly, became grape royalty.
Consequently, the previous generation grabbed fewer headlines.
For sure, it is used in Bordeaux blends to provide backbone, aromatics, herby touches and other elements.
It also pops up in Italy and along the Canada/US border but Hungary’s Bulls Blood (where it has also played a part, especially recently) is not as popular as it was.
There is, however, another area where it remains important and will – I would argue – become increasingly so.
Unlike its late rising son, cabernet franc ripens early and, consequently, works well in cooler climates – and this is where France’s Loire Valley scores.
With the current fashion for lighter, aromatic and fruit influenced reds, these wines are just perfect for summer drinking.
As today’s post illustrates though, other parts of the world also make presentable (and perhaps more orthodox) versions especially as single varietals.
Read on for more details.
As is normal here, pictures and hyperlinks are provided where possible to guide you straight to the right wine on shelf or web page.
So what’s it taste like.
Despite the family link, cabernet franc differs from cabernet sauvignon.
It tends to be medium bodied with only moderate tannin (rather than full with firm tannin) and usually has more acidity.
Equally, the fruit “taste-alikes” of cabernet sauvignon tend to be darker (damson and black currant) as against Dad’s customary raspberry, strawberry and red cherry base.
As I say, the contrast is probably most noticeable in France’s Loire Valley where lightness, freshness and constrained alcohol are most clearly in evidence.
So let’s start there with a relatively inexpensive example.
A gateway version and newcomers should start here.
2023 The Best Chinon (£9.25 at Morrisons and 12.5% abv):
Chinon is part of a red wine producing triangle roughly where the Vienne joins the Loire.
Many consider this area to be home to prime examples of Loire cabernet franc.
Our “gateway selection” has typical grassy freshness that leads into light red plum and raspberry flavours with sharp acidity and a spicy, cola background.
To be fair, its savouriness could be a little less strident but this is, nevertheless, a good example of what this style is all about.
Moving up the price ladder.
2023 Les Terrasses St Nicolas Cabernet Franc (£11.50 at Tesco and 12%):
St Nicolas de Bourgueil is on the other (northern) side of the Loire to Chinon and the sandier soil found there is often thought to be why its wines sometimes seem especially light.
This is more floral and smoother than the Chinon and its savoury mineral edge is less pronounced.
However, cherry-like flavours shine through brightly and are accompanied by the region’s classic acidity and dialled down tannin but, here, given a little nip of pepper and cappuccino traces on the finish.
And heading up the age points too.
One of the strengths of Loire cabernet franc is that it is so well suited to being drunk young and relatively cool.
Nevertheless, a little aging does no harm at all as our third versions testifies.
2020 Le Pavillon de Targé (£15.99 at Laithwaites and 13%):
This is from Saumur-Champigny (to the west of Chinon and Bourgueil) and right on the banks of the Loire.
It is in an area noted for tuffeau – a distinctive and especially porous limestone soil.
Once again, this is a version that preserves those trademark soft, light bodied raspberry flavours with little tannin.
However, this is a more complex beast and supplements that foundation with mint, blackcurrant and milk chocolate components and more sweetness (both in its aromas and in its finish).
What about cabernet franc from elsewhere?
Well, when the climate warms up, its versions display more texture and ripeness with black fruit influences becoming more pronounced.
First, staying in France.
2023 Cabernet Franc, Pays d’Oc, Domaine du Bosc (£9.25 at The Wine Society and 13.5%):
Close to the Mediterranean, we find this example which is smooth and soft with similar acidity and floral fragrances to its northly compatriots.
However, the texture builds up a bit and acquires tar, slate, paprika and nutmeg elements while its flavours deepen into mulberry and damson influences.
Switching continents.
As has happened with malbec and carmernere, South America has adopted cabernet franc and paints its own picture with this versatile grape.
2022 Tinto Nero: Uco Valley Cabernet Franc (£16.25 at Yapp and 13.5%):
From the high parts of Argentina comes this dense and dark version with mulberry and cola flavours.
Although its acidity is modest, the tannin is much firmer than European examples while its mineral and liquorice components are joined by an underlying nuttiness.
2024 Juanicó Teru Teru Cabernet Franc (£9.50 at The Wine Society and12.5%):
As it has done with France’s tannat grape, Uruguay has joined the party with this very youthful option.
It captures the variety’s juiciness and evolving acidity and actually represents green pepper elements better than other examples today.
Nevertheless, this is fuller wine with firm tannin and suggestions of dried herbs and clove behind its plum and raisin flavours.
So, in conclusion, do give those red Loires a try and, before winter finally signs off, those warmer climate versions too.
Call in again on Monday when the spotlight falls on Top Tips and the especially good value at a store near you that they offer.
17 responses
A really soft and plush CF ,unusually from the Muscadet area, is Domaine du Moulin Camus Cabernet Franc 2020 12.5% abv £10.50 from Woodwinters.Great value- possibly even than Tesco.I think Brian recommended this wine,but not sure.
The Gamay from the same winery at £12 is also a great summer red.
I’ve never really appreciated CF as a stand alone grape but – coincidentally – was introduced to it only 3 days ago and loved this version from Waitrose: Les Nivières from Saumur on the Loire. £8.99 Excellent lighter red showing many of the characteristics mentioned above.
As summer approaches I fancy wines like this will become even more popular, so thanks, Sue., for adding to the Cab Franc role of honour.
The Chinon CF, Lulu L’Alouette, from Majestic also ticks the tasty and affordable boxes at £11.99
Thanks Nick and welcome aboard the Comments site. That is a good call and it is surprising how many sound versions of Cabernet Franc there are about. Do keep sharing news of wine that impress you.
I’ve got a big soft spot for Cab Franc and the green pepper note it usually shows. It has such a wide range of styles, but those Loire versions are usually great value. Not tried all the ones you’ve suggested, so will give some of them ago. I do really like South African Cab Franc, where it’s more black fruits and blueberry, but the best ones aren’t cheap!
Good shout, Lisa, for new world options which do tend to be weightier – but the variety is versatile enough to cater for that.
Joy to my eyes today, this terrific article on my favourite French red wine grape variety, concentrated as production is in Le Jardin de France, from Saumur then east to its natural home in St Nicolas de Bourgueil, and lovely Chinon sitting as that town does on the Vienne river. I know of no-one who ever went to Chinon and was disappointed.
Of course I know we can’t go everywhere in our lifetime but grateful I am for the discovery 43 years ago of this particular ”garden” and what it offered in abundance in so many different ways to a holiday tripper who was already an enthusiastic wine drinker. In those days the Renaissance Chateaux of the Loire were forever the substance of articles in the weekend colour supplements. We just had to go.
Cabernet Franc as a single-grape-stand-alone I personally tend to think is in the marmite appellation. The green pepper description I’ve always thought of as being more grassy, sous bois, even stalky when it is extreme. It compares almost to the ”’petrol” characteristic of so much Riesling as an individualistic trait that creates detraction. It is distinct but in a Bordeaux cuvée less distracting. We seem to like it or not from the Loire. Maybe the dark fruit tastes from South Africa and South America will have broader appeal.
Other elements of this wine/grape I particularly enjoy, depending where it has originated, is how perfumed it might be and can it work without food as a glass to be savoured more than an accompaniment to a meal. It’s a hard call at times. Mind you the grape does work well with stronger fish like salmon and pan friend truites with herbs. And veal cutlets that we rarely see in this country.
Over that 43 years I’ve drunk a lot of Cabernet Franc much of it sourced locally in the Loire at some of the best supermarket operations anywhere, especially the French retail giant E Leclerc. I mention this specifically here because on the outskirts of Chinon itself is a branch of Leclerc that offers something that gladdened my heart whenever I shopped there. An experience yes to browse masses of cheaper-end local Cab. Franc on the wine aisle shelves, but here too is an actual dedicated temperature controlled cave room filled with quality bottles where tastings and discussions can happen. So French and wholly convivial.
A shop at this store is an education in may ways. One I learned by being amongst older vintages where age does determine greater expense. And then just the premise of a locally produced ”agricultural” product available here. We make it here … we sell it here. Leclerc often comes in like that, operating as we might see a farm shop local to us in Britain.
So I always aim to have a few bottles in the ”cellar” especially these Brian proposes including the Tesco Les Terraces St Nicolas at £11.50 , Morrisons Best Chinon at £9.25. The Co op Domaine des Ormes Saumur Rouge at £11.25 is another that compliments the production spectrum of that relatively short stretch of the Loire Valley. Open a bottle of all three maybe and do a tasting comparison if you have such an inclination. So much fun .
The problem with the price of that very good Co op bottle is it usually remains steady with little discounting. Thankfully Tesco and Morrisons regularly offer us an advantage to have 25% off when buying 6. It well satisfies me that at any moment when I desire to drink a Loire Cabernet I have no need to leave the house because there’s always one in stock bought at its most advantageous price.
The last time I bought the Morrisons Best version last year it cost just over £6 a bottle to be stocked-up for a few months. Naturally the price is now hiked but can still be had for £6.93. Perfectly happy with that.
I’ve tended in the past not to buy this grape as made anywhere but the Loire so I’m very happy to understand Brian’s assessment of wine from other locations. Maybe the odd single bottle now and then I should go for to be further educated. In fact I’ll go now and drop a one of those TWS Uruguayans in my basket for my next order with them, soon to happen.
I though of you, Eddie., while I was writing that piece as we do both carry a torch for Loire wines. Thanks for the extra nominations – good to see how many commendable versions there are about and how much people like them.
As usual, a huge thanks to Brian (and everyone else!), for providing such interesting information.
Have just visited the Morrisons’ app, and discovered there’s a “buy 3, save 30%” offer on their Best wines – for More card holders. Unfortunately I can’t see when the offer ends.
Hi Gillian,
If you need to find another bottle to make up their for three offer,then you might want to consider Morrison’s The Best Assyrtiko £10.50 which is made by the much feted Kir- Yianni whose bottles usually sell at £15 plus.So good value even though just over a tenner.
Wowzer!!!
Thanks so much Paul! I’ll probably finish off my trio with their Primitivo….
What a score!
Incidentally the red Xinomavro in the Expressions series at M&S is also made by the Kir-Yianni winery. This was founded by Yiannis Boutaris who died recently in November. Apparently a charismatic and influential character in addition to his winemaking he was mayor of Thessaloniki, a founder member of the Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Arts and a long-standing advocate for the Holocaust Museum in his home city which is finally coming to fruition.
Yes ,quite so Keith,a remarkable man who went way beyond excellent wine making.
He was twice major of Thessaloniki.
During his service he introduced an extrovert culture in Thessaloniki, following his vision to establishing the city as an open-minded,vibrant, trailblazing driving force of culture, arts, sustainable tourism, wine, and gastronomy in the Balkans and beyond.He succeeded.
Kir stands for Sir in Greek.His philosophy for wine and his company was Kali Riza- Good root.He was an early advocate for organic, regenerative
wine making that was good for wildlife.
And if all that was not enough,he sponsored the local ARIS basketball team!
A pretty good life devoted to many things we would applaud.
Thank you Paul, that really is what makes this comments section so pleasing. MidWeekers helping each other in that way.
I understand that the promotion runs until 23 March but, beware, some of these promotions do close down early.