Most times, wine classifications are only of excitement to the nerds.
However, the Vin de France classification, introduced in 2010, has facilitated something of real value for enthusiasts of everyday wines.
Its catalyst was a jump from 3% of the global market for New World wines in 1990 to around 30% a mere 20 years later.
A day when entry point French wines became unsellable seemed to be looming.
Analysts there concluded that these newcomers were flourishing because they were doing simple things right (concentrating on grape varieties and consumer tastes).
French wine laws, built strictly on geographic delimitations and traditions, restricted the country’s producers’ ability to do that.
In simple terms, the solution was to borrow the New World playbook but keep “France” on the label as a quality signal.
So, to restore its wine exporting successes and rival New World options, the varietal-led, region-free (often imaginatively branded) Vin de France model emerged.
Put simply, it aimed to free French winemakers from some regional rules so they could better blend their wines purely for flavour.
Happily, for us, it also allowed some great value wines to appear in our wine aisles.
Today, we consider two examples of the process in action – with the usual pictures and – where it helps -hyperlinks.
Starting in the pink
Which wine should I buy? 2025 Angel’s Vine Rosé
Why should I buy it? As discussed, the Vin de France classification makes it easier for winemakers to sidestep geographic rules to match wines precisely to their taste target. Here, it seems that turning to multiple Mediterranean vineyards in that way has led to a versatile, sophisticated rosé that works equally well on winter evenings as on a summer’s day.
What does it taste like? Pleasingly elegant, with appealing apple blossom aromas, this delivers red apple, raspberry and red currant flavours coupled with zippy citrus acidity. A savoury edge adds interest, as do the supplementary passion fruit influences.
Where, how much and what abv? £8.65 at the Co-op and 11% abv
Now for a red
Which wine should I buy? 2024 Atlantique Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot
Why should I buy it? The “Atlantique” brand leans into the image of France’s Atlantic coast and, as with the rosé, uses Vin de France flexibility to get what it wants. Here, the result is a blend of typical claret grapes that – to me – tastes more like Loire reds than those of Bordeaux.
So, what does that actually taste like? Aromas of dark fruit act as an introduction to its smooth cherry, red plum and chocolate flavours. These are skilfully supported by firm tannin, good acidity, gentle minerality and touches of baking spice and oregano.
Where, how much and what abv? £7.50 at Tesco– but sometimes on a Clubcard promotion – and 12.5% abv.
Drop by next Monday for Top Tips from Italy and South West France or, before then, take a more detailed look at wine through our sister site – https://midweekwinesguild.substack.com/
7 responses
Scandal,gossip and fraud.Yes,please!
The scandal of mislabeling Italian wine as French table wine (vin de table) primarily arose from economic incentives, particularly when Italian wine was significantly cheaper.
These imports were sometimes directly sold or relabeled as vin de table (table wine) under French labels, passing them off as French origin in order to meet demand or secure higher prices.
However, as Brian says, Vin de France label allows expertise and flexibility as in Naudin Père et Fils Chardonnay 2022/23 Majestic from £10.
Made by a top Burgundy wine maker but the grapes are sourced from all over France.The consumer wins on flavour and value.
Perhaps we need a new label “Vin de soif.” Wine of thirst?
Now there’s a great name! Interesting to see how increasing numbers of Vin de France are now surfacing and underlining your point about combining “flavour and value”.
Hi Brian,
A sister of your featured red wine may be of interest to readers.
2024 Atlantique Bordeaux Rosé, Bordeaux AOC, 12.5% abv, less than 1 g/l residual sugar. It is 100% Cabernet Franc, and has an International Wine Challenge Silver medal. Currently on offer at £7.25 at Sainsburys (down from £8.25) but 25% less if you buy a mixed 6, or more!
And a 2025 Atlantique Merlot Rosé, 12% abv, 1.1 g/l RS should be in Tesco from next month, at £7.75.
I can appreciate the convenience of picking a bottle with a lovely picture of a sailing boat on the label, knowing this “brand” is reliable. Rather than looking closely at the back label to see if you recognise the producer, e.g. Paul Mas!
The Atlantique brand (one of many) is the brainchild of Guy Anderson Wines, who champion the concept of wine brands to simplify selecting a wine from crpwded supermarket wine aisles.
Good to see the expansion of the range from – I suspect – the first “toe in the water” with sauvignon blanc, and thanks for the update, Richard. I think I am right in saying that the “Yellow Tram” Porta 6 is another of the Guy Anderson Wines.
Yes, indeed!
So given the label and Vin de France descriptor can we assume Majestic’s Le Voyage d’Odette Sauvignon Blanc is from the same producer (see https://www.majestic.co.uk/wines/le-voyage-dodette-05098)? Has Odette been travelling across France collecting her grapes?
Not Guy Anderson, I think.Not in his stable.The Atlantique boat is going right and has two sailors- from an original illustration.Quality.
The Odette label yacht is going left and is uncrewed and to my artistically tuned eye is much cruder and lacks motion and charm.
However label enthusiasts need to check out the Guy Anderson Majestic” Luna Lapis” labels.Magnifique!