Value Hunting by Defying Borders and Tradition

Value secured just off the beaten track.

Once again, the quest for optimal value for MidWeekers takes us off the beaten track.

This time, however, I am not straying too far.

Today’s selections have strong links with top performing areas but, in each case, there is a twist that helps ease the pressure on pockets.

In one case, that twist involves crossing a national border.

In the other, it is achieved by moving outside the maturation processes for which the region is celebrated.

I hope you enjoy them both.

As usual, pictures and hyperlinks are included where possible to make it easier to track down the wine in question.

First, the frontier crossing grape

2024 Azul Marinho Alvarinho (£7.47 at Asda – currently “rolled back” from £8.42 and 12% abv):

Albariño from Spain continues to excite white wine lovers the world over.

Consequently, however, versions from across the border in Portugal (note the different spelling) are sometimes overlooked.

This impressive example could remedy that injustice with its core of greengage, pear and apricot flavours.

These are accompanied by zingy grapefruit acidity and a typical saline influenced texture.

And then its partner red.

2022 Palacio de Primavera Tinto (£7.00 – instead of £9.50 until 19 August at Waitrose and 13%):

Rioja does not always need lengthy aging as this great value example testifies.

Smooth with dried fruit aromas, it delivers concentrated black cherry, floral and cinnamon flavours.

A neat balanced is achieved, however by its sharp acidity and muted tannin and by the touches of chocolate and herbs incorporated in its supporting medium bodied texture.

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13 responses

  1. The Spanish Albariño has become very fashionable and is often a very expensive option on restaurant lists.
    A few miles south,across the northern border of Portugal, Alvarinho- same grape- is often a delicious cheaper option- as highlighted by Brian.
    Morrisons also do a very good The Best Alvarinho at £9.75, so best to wait for on offer times.
    I must mention Sainsbury’s Atlantique Vinho Verde which is on Nectar offer at £7.25 ,but only for one more day.A great blend of five indigenous grape varieties,which I think would appeal to Albariño/Alvarinho lovers,but you will have to be quick!

    1. Thanks for joining the Comments section, Nick. Not tried that one, is it good and do delivery charges apply?

  2. Hi Brian,

    A while ago I was musing that not many years ago I was not really aware of Albariño wines or Manchego cheeses! But now they are both mainstream products with an accepted high quality level. Thankfully neither seem to have gone through a common cycle of growing popularity, followed by lowering standards and over-production, consumer disappointments and then an eventual quality revival! I can’t recall having a poor example of either, and when paying a bit more, have experienced some really lovely “sweet spot” wines and cheeses.

    Paul’s mention of the Sainsbury’s Atlantique Vinho Verde is a timely reminder that I had forgotten to pop in and buy a bottle of the Atlantique Bordeaux Rosé. I’ve heard very favourable reviews of this 100% Cab Franc wine, which is also on a Nectar card offer – £7, down from £8.

  3. Mystery and intrigue.
    What can we learn from a wine label?
    Let’s take Brian’s Rioja above
    Palacio de Primavera means Palace of Spring.Tinto-Red.Looks like a goldy 92 points badge top left on illustration.Actual bottle bought today shows Decanter 2023 Silver Award ,90 points.
    No birds on label , but lots of pretty vines and vine leaves.
    Vendimia Seleccionada means “ Selected grape harvest” suggesting only the best grape bunches were chosen for this wine.
    Calificada probably best translated as “qualified grade”which means it meets the Rioja origin requirements.Can be narrowed down to Alfaro in northern Rioja, where the Ebro meets the Alhama river.
    Best served at 15C which is way below most room temperatures.13% abv suggests that it is not too heavy on the alcohol. Positively spring like!
    Amazing how far a bit of Spanish and a close look at the label can inform and transport.

  4. Don’t forget to take a magnifying glass and probably get a life too if you’ll stand in the wine aisle deciphering labels like this!!! Life is way too short to be this esoteric about something just asking to be taken home and consumed . On y va …

    1. I feel that is a bit unfair and unkind. I found Paul’s comment quite interesting and informative. Unlike somebody else’s…

      1. Fear not mate … help is at hand. Inexpensive vaccinations for ELN available from the bottom shelf at Aldi!!

        ** esoteric label nerdiness

  5. Please continue to read wine labels carefully.They often contain important information.If you were to serve Brian’s Rioja in the present heatwave at ,30C then you are very likely to be disappointed and at risk of wasting hard earned money.
    The professional wine maker recommends on the label that this wine is at its best at between 14 and 16C.Good advice- you don’t need a thermometer,but it makes one aware that there is huge difference between 30C and 15C and that this wine needs to be thoroughly chilled to be enjoyed at its optimum.

  6. Did you spot the second mystery?
    Sometimes what is not on the label is as important as what is on the label.
    A traditional Rioja would have Joven or Crianza or Reserva or Gran Reserva on the label.
    But there is no mention of any of these.
    There is a small green Rioja label on the back which indicates that this is a generic wine with no ageing requirements.
    Does that mean this is a lesser wine? Not in my book; best not to judge a wine until you have tasted it.

  7. Hi Paul, if it’s just labelled Rioja, usually, it’s for wines that don’t fit the traditional aging classifications or for wines where the producer wants to emphasize other characteristics, such as a focus on fruit or a particular vineyard.

    1. Hi David,

      Thanks for that.

      The 100 km long Rioja region has slowly begun to contract in an attempt to deal with a glut of excess wine left by declining red wine sales in post- pandemic years.
      It is Spain’s oldest DO -Denominación de Origen – and celebrates its centenary this year.
      There is tension between traditionalists and terroiristes.- I had to carefully check that spelling three times!
      The former want to keep going with the existing classification system of ageing in oak and bottle and the latter are more interested in location and which village the wine comes from.
      I suspect that there will be more innovation, perhaps to lighter fruity reds and more emphasis on white wines ,and we will see a lot more of that pale green Rioja logo on the back label.

  8. Just to clarify- the Rioja region is not contracting,but grape production is contracting and vines are being pulled out,to try to balance production with demand.

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