One way to fight back against the steady, above inflation, upward spiral of wine prices, is to embrace the unfamiliar.
This could be in respect of areas – Southwest France and Romania for instance – where determined pushes for recognition constrain prices.
Another option for “fighting back” is to seek out lesser known grape varieties where the same battle for recognition wages.
I am giving that second option a bit of a boost today with two good examples.
Both represent excellent value even if they are not at bargain basement prices.
They certainly hold their own against more expensive alternatives.
One is essentially a local grape from Italy while the other is a white taken under the wing of this site’s friend J-C Mas.
As is normal here, pictures are provided to guide you straight to the right wine on the shelf or web page – and hyperlinks too, where possible.
First, then, the red
2023 Found Refosco (£8.50 at M&S and 13% abv):
We travel to northeastern Italy for the first of our lesser known variety – specifically the late ripening, local red grape refosco.
Significantly, this example bears the IGT Trevenezie regional designation which includes Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Veneto and parts of Trentino.
Intentionally, that is a massive area designed to allow the blending of parcels of fruit from the varied terroirs it contains.
This example is vibrant with bramble jelly aromas and a foundation containing textured blackcurrant, plum and bitter cherry flavours, and works well slightly chilled.
These elements are supplemented by firm acidity (but little tannin) and suggestions of nutmeg, cola and balsamic.
And now this white newcomer
2024 Taste the Difference Discovery Souvignier Gris (£8.25 – instead of £9.50 until 1 July – with a Nectar card at Sainsbury’s and 12.5%):
Souvignier gris is a relatively new hybrid variety developed about 40 years ago in Freiburg, Germany.
Its resistance to (especially fungal) diseases caught the eye of Jean-Claude Mas who is actively promoting the commercial development of less “health challenged” grapes.
One result is this white wine of his that features gentle herb influenced texture and contrasting sharp tangerine acidity.
Those components harmoniously combine with the wine’s central soft, greengage, apple and melon flavours.
While not as assertive as sauvignon blanc, the variety has won plaudits elsewhere for “medium bodied stone fruit flavours and balanced acidity”.
After today’s focus on the serious business of super value wines, things take a lighter note with some surprising revelations when we meet again on Thursday.
11 responses
Like me I’m sure many who follow MWW find exploring lesser-known grape varieties an affordable and compelling aspect of our wine drinking experience. There is only so much NZ Sauvignon Blanc you can bear [insert your current běte noire here] and I guess the tax regime on wine in the UK has become a significant factor driving retailers to cast the net ever wider. Long may they seek out the hidden gems from 2nd tier grape varieties across Europe!
I am pleased to see you highlighting the M&S Found Refosco today Brian. To my taste it is even better than the M&S Found Marzemino recommended last month. I note too a number of wine writers in the weekend supplements have been recently recommending these and others in the Found series. – e.g. David Williams in the Guardian this weekend picks out another from Italy – the M&S Found Pignolo as well as the Portuguese M&S Found Encruzado. I see there is a new M&S Found Len de L’El too, the French grape also known as Loin de L’Oeil. Sainsbury’s had a well rated Taste the Difference Discovery Collection Gaillac Loin de l’Oeil last year which might be an interesting comparison.
But on current showing it seems that Italy and Portugal have most to offer in this regard. Another Portuguese wine (red) I keep coming back to is in the rival Waitrose selection – Loved & Found Sousão. Yes, I just remember it by adding an O to the composer of “The Stars and Stripes Forever”. (John Philip Sousa)
Hi Brian,
I have drunk both the M&S Found Refosco and the M&S Found Marzemino earlier this year, and like Keith, enjoyed them very much. They are both ideal summer reds, not too heavy, with real charm and character. So much so, that I contemplated going to buy further bottles, at list price – the ultimate endorsement!
Also bought the Souvignier Gris, although haven’t opened it yet. If there is a new M&S Found, Waitrose Loved & Found or Sainsbury’s discovery series wine that I haven’t tried I generally buy a bottle (unless 14% or higher!) on spec, and am rarely disappointed.
As an aside, I popped into Asda this morning, and surveyed the wine aisles. They have reduced the 2023 Verdicchio Classico Dei Castelli Di Jesi to £3.45! I lashed out and bought a bottle, as these are generally pretty reliable. This example is bottled by C.V.Follonica and imported by Off-Piste wines. If anyone is having a garden party with thirsty guests this could be just the job.
Lastly a note on the Co-Op online tastings, that Paul has publicised in the past. The last event, featuring Co-op Fairtrade Don David Malbec and Cabernet wines, was abruptly postponed, but has now been rescheduled for 3rd July. The recording of the previous event, featuring Co-op Irresistible Mâcon-Villages Chardonnay, for which I bought the bottle but couldn’t attend the live event, has now suddenly appeared on YouTube – and is interesting as it gives information on the well regarded Cave de Lugny cooperative.
Hi Richard
The Co op Don David Malbec is worth trying, it’s pretty decent for the price
Agdam Gyzyl Uzumu
Hands up, those who have heard of this grape.
I did not raise mine either.
Where do you think it might come from- Lebanon? Georgia?
No, it is from my favourite gastronomic Italian area of Emilia Romagna.It is the grape variety in a rich tropical lemon/ orange/ lime and jasmine Waitrose Lost and Found white wine.£9.25, with a great title – Famoso.A wine that lives up to the label.
Staying with Italy, indeed in my second favourite area – Sicily- let’s not forget the charms of the M&S Found Lucido white wine.£8. Lucido is the titchy grape variety, pronounced loo- ciao- do, not loo- si-do. For those of us on statins and banned from grapefruit juice, this jolts the memory and combines with frosted apple and juicy melon.Previously recommended by Brian and a good price.
Waitrose Loved and Found.,although Nearly Lost forever and Found is quite appropriate!
To be honest Paul I thought your first line here was a Welsh salutation! But reading on I had not heard of this grape variety. Mr Google suggests it’s a pink skinned grape grown in Azerbaijan so how come the mention of Emilia Romagna? Is it on the label? Genuinely interested as I just assumed the Famoso was the grape variety.
Hi Keith,
The weird named grape variety for this wine was reported and is published on the Waitrose Cellar website.
Famoso is the title on the wine label and like you ,I initially took that as the grape variety,but thought it was perhaps an easier to pronounce local name.
Not sure what it says on the back of the label as the bottle has gone to recycling!
Perhaps Brian or Waitrose can shed some light on this mystery?
Hi Paul,
Can’t find any evidence that Agdam Gyzyl Uzumu and Famoso are the same grape. Jancis Robinson had an article about the latter 11 years ago! https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/famoso-not-yet-famous. (Sorry – link function doesn’t seem to work here). Like Keith I’m a fan of the Sousao and previously the Castelão in the Loved and Found series but this one looks worth a try. Thanks.
Hi David and Paul,
I’m sorry to report that I’m now 99% certain that the mystery linking the Waitrose Loved & Found Famoso to the niche grape variety Agdam Gyzyl Uzumu from Azerbaijan on the Waitrose Cellar website is a data inputting error. Evidence?
1) Look up the Loved and Found Castelão on the WC website and scroll down to the Wine at a glance section. The grape variety here is listed as Grüner Veltliner. I’m impressed that the Portuguese are making a red wine from a white grape more typical of Austria.
2) The page for the Loved & Found Sousão doesn’t list any grape variety. Sousão (or Vinhão) would do. If only they had listed it Cortese or Vermentino / Rolle!!
Hi Keith and David E,
Thank you both for your help.
I am now also 99% certain that it was an input data error by Waitrose.The label on the bottle says Famoso *is the grape variety and I can find no relationship between it and the Azerbaijan grape variety.
Famoso could be the grape that Italy forgot.Apparently it went down to 2 rows and was near- extinct.The aromatic fragrant grapes went out of fashion.It has been indigenous to the area for over 500 years.
Thankfully it has now been rediscovered and celebrated.To me there is a welcome sense of Muscat about it.A cracking wine.
* Also known as Uva Rambela.!
Sainsbury 25% off for a few more days.