Languedoc and South Africa have established themselves as reliable sources of characterful wines at sensible prices.
Both are regions where reasonable quality does not seem to demand premium pricing.
However, this week’s selections go beyond emphasising the value proposition they both offer.
With alcohol levels above 13%, both wines run counter to the current “duty efficient” trend towards lower abv’s.
The red provides the regional typicity of Corbières despite having something of a surprise in the blend.
Meanwhile, the white seems to demonstrate how judicious oak use can enhance, but never overwhelm, a flavour range.
At under £9 and £7 respectively, both will appeal to those missing the extra substance and depth that (the fashionable) lower alcohol wines struggle to replicate.
Once again, pictures (and where it helps, a hyperlink) are included to make it easier to track down the wine in question.
Starting in South Africa
2024 Exceptional by Asda, Chenin Blanc (£6.82 at Asda and 13.5% abv):
This Paarl chenin blanc (a grape South Africa currently handles so well) shows more oak influences than, I suggest, is typical for youthful expressions of the variety.
That is no bad thing as the wine seems to be fermented in oak (rather than matured in it) and that adds smoothness and cedar and vanilla traces in a measured but not dominating way.
All that builds on the wine’s flavour profile which centres on mildly sweet, baked apple, marmalade and melon elements making the wine feel approachable yet refined.
Good clarity and zesty lime acidity provide brightness that keeps everything light and spritely despite over 13% alcohol.
Doubling back to Europe
2023 Maison Fortant Selections Parcellaires Corbieres (£8.50 – down from £11 until 21 October with a Morrisons Loyalty Card and 14% abv):
Unusually for Corbieres, I sense that the carignan grape plays little part in this red blend, yet the result still conveys the structure and robustness for which that region is noted.
It opens with savoury components but, after brief contact with air, these give way to soft damson, black cherry and bramble flavours.
Allowing the wine to open up rewards you with a sophisticate glassful containing layers of juniper and clove to embellish its dark fruit foundation and firm tannin.
Bright grapefruit peel acidity cuts through any richness, providing welcome additional balance and lift.
Join me again on Thursday when MidWeek Wines goes off the beaten track in the company of MidWeeker Keith.
7 responses
Got round to tasting the Australian Pikes Riesling in the last post.Different and interesting.It seemed to me to be like a loveable,but unruly Jack Russell puppy dog.A breed known for being bitey and yes,there was a definite citrus bite of lime on levels close to a NZ Sauvignon Blanc.I thought the wine was a bit young and was gratified to read on the back label, something like “ you will be amply rewarded by cellaring this wine for seven to 10 years”.Not something you see everyday on a supermarket wine!
Also Brian, your instincts on the Corbières above are correct.The blend seems to be 50% Syrah and 50% Grenache.
Hi Paul,
If I read ‘different and interesting’ right you, like me, were not very taken with Pikes Riesling. I think I just don’t like Clare Valley riesling because I remember not liking Aldi’s version a few years back under their Exquisite brand – which I’m glad to say they seem to have pensioned off long ago. I guess I’m just old-fashioned and grew up with German riesling – although I do prefer (as I think the Germans themselves do) today’s generally drier styles. Tried to buy Brian’s recommended Corbières – which I think will be right up my street – but of course my local Morrisons didn’t have it.
See my thoughts on the variations in riesling’s styles under Dave’s comment. Really good to have those differences brought out so thank you for setting out the “case against” this one.
Hello David,
I did enjoy the journey as to why I was a bit disappointed with this Pikes Riesling.I felt that it was unbalanced ,with a young hard acidic edge- less than pH 3 -and had an underpowered light weight mouth feel.I think a few more days of fermentation bringing the alcohol levels up to 12..5% and a touch more sugar would transform this wine.Riesling Tin hat employed!
Sorry Guys, I rather liked the Pikes Riesling, ( I do like Clare Valley Wines) it’s fresh, clean and bright, think Lisa aptly called it a ‘lime bomb’ it was very Linear, citrussy with almost a sherberty finish, love the old-fashioned looking label as well.
Interesting that riesling is versatile enough to cater for a wide range of tastes. Indeed, Riesling specialist Stuart Pigott has described its range “as extending from feather-light to ton-heavy”.
That, I guess, is what drives the differing opinions expressed here. Jancis Robinson uses words like … “depth”, “highly textured,” and “full in the mouth,” in her assessments, for instance, of specific Alsace rieslings. By contrast, James Halliday concentrates on words like “filling the mouth with lime, lemon and apple flavours, perfectly braced by acidity” when describing Pikes Riesling.
Any differences in weight and texture here will be accentuated by the mere 11.5% alcohol of the current Pikes Riesling.
Tried the Chenin Blanc at a tasting today and was amazed at the quality here for under £7. Surprisingly full yet refined for such an affordable wine. Only sorry that it’s a major schlep for me to get to an Asda.