Two wines with the “Vin de France” classification today prompt a wider discussion.
At its simplest, the category merely sits at the foot of that country’s “Appellation” hierarchy.
But there is more at play here than the production of simple, even humble, wine.
Many European countries have strict geographic rules to provide reassurance that grapes from “lesser” areas have not been used.
That was once a crucial consideration, but what if conditions there one summer significantly impair quality, volumes or both?
And, with climate change, that situation may be more regular.
Providing an answer was one reason the Vin de France category was created.
Indeed, official words surrounding the designation specifically give producers:-
- “the opportunity to create differentiated wines geared to current consumer demand”, and,
- “freedom to blend … free from regional weather hazards [thus] guaranteeing consistent quality from year to year.
Hence, much more experimentation is possible with varieties and source locations.
Wines can have components vinified in Burgundy, Languedoc and points between.
Providing everything is labelled properly, unfamiliar grape varieties can also be used to perfect quality and consistency
Although details about today’s pinot noir are sparse, I am guessing that the Loire has a part to play there.
In fact, we can expect climate change to move prime pinot noir areas northward and German versions, for example, are starting to shine.
Meanwhile, stories abound of Burgundian vineyards with higher altitudes becoming more popular as part of the quest to maintain pinot noir acidity levels.
While we may miss some of the authenticity of classic wine areas, reliable quality may make it a price worth paying.
In the usual way, hyperlinks and pictures are used where possible to help you locate the bottle in question.
Starting with a red
2024 Olivier Dubois ‘Cuvée Prestige’ Pinot Noir (from £9 at Majestic but rising £1 shortly and 12.5% abv):
As I said earlier, who knows where all the pinot here calls home but let’s just enjoy the quality.
It is nicely centred on smooth and well defined cherry, bramble and loganberry flavours.
Additional support comes in the shape of aromas of dark fruit, orange centred acidity and suggestions of clove and violets.
And now a look at chardonnay.
2024 Grand Conseiller Bouchard Aine & Fils Chardonnay (£8 – instead of £9 until 11 August with a Tesco Clubcard and also 12.5%):
This wine is a tribute to Paul Bouchard.
Although the Grand Conseiller himself died in 1898, he would have applauded the quality obsession at the heart of this wine.
Although only a small proportion is actually from that region, this offering is worthy of a moderately expensive White Burgundy.
It displays elegant apple and honeydew melon flavours partnered by the subtle use of oak.
That subtlety is because only a little of the wine is aged in oak (as opposed to stainless steel) but it still adds gentle vanilla, almond and buttery components.
See you again on Thursday with another look at the differing aspects of the wonderful world of wine. Two nicely configured wines from classic grape varieties at great prices
6 responses
My French is not up to the same level as my Portuguese.Intrigued by Aine on the Chardonnay label,I found it means groin-which is not great.
Aîné however means eldest son,which makes more sense.Off to Tesco,thanks,Brian.
Who would be a winemaker?
Here is a summary by Bouchard of the 2024 Burgundy harvest.
“The year 2024 in Burgundy was marked by extreme weather conditions, with excessive rainfall and a significant lack of sunshine. These factors led to heavy disease pressure, particularly downy mildew, complicating the work of the winegrowers. Frost and hail also caused significant damage, particularly in regions such as Chablis and Auxerrois.
Yields were severely affected, with drops of up to 70% in some areas. The Côte Chalonnaise held up better, with more limited losses. Overall, volumes are well below the usual average, a reminder of the difficult harvests in 2021.
The late harvest necessitated rigorous sorting to preserve quality.”
Hi Paul,
As Brian says only a small proportion of the blend comes from Burgundy but the Bouchard’s 2024 vintage report for the south of France is just as difficult: “These cumulative hazards favoured the development of diseases, particularly mildew, with an impact on the health of the vines. Yields were lower than expected and down compared to the previous year, because of these diseases but also the persistent drought for several years which weakened the vines.” A testament to their skill that they can still produce a wine that seemingly punches well above its weight (and price bracket).
Wow! A decent white burgundy substitute for £8. I am in France right now but off to Tesco when I get home. Thank’s Brian.
I was involved in Substack discussion with Andy Neather,Joe Fattorini and Fiona Beckett about wine writing ,which was getting a bit precious- this is what I said:
I do admire wine writers such as Brian Elliot who for over ten years has been writing twice a week in his free website MidWeek wines- looking for value and quality in supermarket offerings and also the Wine Society,Majestic and excellent indies such as WoodWinters etc.Not selling anything, and for me and many others is a proven and trusted source who is diligent and fair. Can’t ask for much more.
Hard copy brochures from TWS on the lobby mat this AM featuring a dedicated resume of wines of Southern France. Prescient since a lot of these are none dedicated appellations that are of Vin de France description.
Jumping out none moreso than the Cantoiseau Blanc 2024 that must have something to do with a bird of sorts, but I’ll not go there. It’s £6.95 a pop so we are in the real world here at least, price wise. Strongly features Sauvignon Blanc and I’m going to have a bit of that. I see there’s a red too. Interesting.
Grenache -Syrah-Mouverdre is always on the cards when it comes to the Rhône and seems to get the nod over pure Syrah when people speak of these reds up and down the Valley. Me, I’m for Syrah straight ever since we stayed in the Station Hotel in Tain overlooked by that massive south facing, vine-clad, hillside that speaks of vinous pleasure. TWS are offering their own 2023 Syrah that comes from a commune at Brézème south of Crozes-Hermitage . Again considering provenance at £8.50 it’s a steal if we like it.
Further south we get an AOP, 2023 from Fitou by Katie Jones, that many of us have spoken about her abilities in the past , that’s £15.50 if our budgets will allow. It was a worthwhile treat when last I tried a bottle she’d produced.
The brochure is packed with stuff, inspirational, but not a fortune in many instances.
Grabbed a couple bottles in Tesco following the recommendation of this white Burgundy ‘type’ chardonnay thanks Brian! Aromatic flinty nose followed by a palate of peach, grapefruit, dried apricot and crunchy apple finishing with spiced lime zest in a lengthy finish. Great value at £8 offer price!