Like most areas of life, the wine world has its rising stars and its fading luminaries.
Orvieto, once a familiar name that enjoyed export success particularly in the 1970s, has seen its profile diminish.
By contrast, though, the red grape Zweigelt’s popularity has steadily grown and its area under cultivation in Austria, for instance, has increased dramatically this century.
It is gaining recognition among wine lovers worldwide as consumers seem increasingly attracted to lighter, fruit-driven reds.
So, today’s selections offer – on one hand – white wine ideally placed to reclaim past glories alongside – on the other – a red variety confidently building a reputation.
Adopting my traditional format, images and, where possible, hyperlinks accompany the assessments of the wines.
Starting with that rising star
2022 Lentsch Zweigelt (£8 — down from £10 until 28 October – at Waitrose and 12.5%):
This Austrian red has a dark appearance but delivers lively floral influences alongside attractive cranberry, ripe cherry and subtle orange peel characteristics.
The tannin structure is firm yet balanced, complementing a gentle savouriness that takes this beyond everyday offerings at this price.
Consider serving it slightly chilled to appreciate its refined character and note that it pairs particularly well with a wide range of dishes.
Zweigelt has the advantage over many red varieties that it is genuinely enjoyable on its own – with the bonus here that it is currently on offer.
And now the returning hero
2024 Orvieto Classico (£7 at the Co-op and 11%):
This “less familiar than it once was” white from Central Italy is a restrained offering with a pale colour and understated aromas.
Nevertheless, it still has a very clear foundation centred on nicely balanced apple, nectarine and melon flavours.
In support comes a gentle acidity that harmonises well with the other components that also include floral touches, hints of butterscotch and exotic spices with a faint sweetness.
Its clean, approachable style works effectively with a range of foods, and this example provides noteworthy quality at a pleasingly modest price point.
NB:- Prices may vary slightly between different Co-op stores.
The next post (on Thursday) considers modestly priced supermarket New Zealand sauvignon blancs and finds a winner.
4 responses
Good to see the Lentsch Zweigelt getting a recommendation. It is great value at £8 for the next week. Some interesting discussion and comparisons around various readily available Austrian Zweigelts in comments back in July at https://www.midweekwines.co.uk/escaping-the-crowd-for-quality-smart-buys-and-value/
Agree, Keith, it is a good example of an underestimated grape variety.
Agree Keith, about the Zweigelt, full of Cranberries, very aromatic, savoury and slightly floral, but with pronounced tannins, for £8 it’s a great buy. Not drunk too much Orvieto but I’d choose it over Pinto Grigio, good food wine as well, I’ll grab a bottle from our local Co op.
Yes Orvieto always seems a more subtle and delicate offering than pinot grigio and can rise to great heights in the right hands.