A story of two “rising star” grape varieties for you today.
One was immensely popular last century and is now staging a comeback.
The other seemed a perpetual “bridesmaid” but is now acquiring the “flowing white dress” status.
Get ahead of the herd by snapping up these two well-priced examples right now.
Starting in Italy.
2024 Irresistible Soave Classico (£8.25 at the Co-op and 12%):
The fruits of a major, 30 year re-invention process in Soave are increasingly being recognised by consumers.
It is the pay-off from all that work to study local soils and the effect of altitude and to concentrate on garganega grapes (banning trebbiano toscano from DOC and higher level wines).
And this Classico version from the Co-op’s Irresistible range illustrates the improvements perfectly.
It uses fresh acidity with contrasting twists of spice and saltiness to embellish its smooth baked apple, greengage and peach flavours.
Orchard fruit aromas and a nice bit of texture complete the picture.
Then a grape that straddles hemispheres.
2024 Wine Atlas Cinsault (£6.97 at Asda and 12.5 % abv):
There are even more reasons behind the improved status cinsault has attained.
Its heat resistance in a changing climate is one but consumers’ attitudes offer another.
As chewy tannin becomes a “no-no” among younger wine drinkers, so lighter, fruit charged reds gain popularity – especially when they are susceptible to light chilling.
Hence, the gathering pace of cinsault’s rise from useful blending partner to solo performer both in France and South Africa.
Here is a great value example from the latter country with its minty fragrance and gentle cranberry and red plum flavours.
These are supported by tart acidity (but – as already trailered – minimal tannin) and suggestions of allspice.
The next post (on Thursday) reveals how a generation of UK holidaymakers spearheaded a change in attitudes to wine.
7 responses
I tried the Wine Atlas Cinsault at the weekend and for the price it’s very good, maybe lacks a little depth of flavour and that rose petal and Turkish Delight that I get in the best examples. Perfect summer red, and I chilled it in the fridge before serving
After so much rain yesterday it’s a fine morning here in The Sarf Brian. We are visiting family in Waitrose-land and a sweetie shop treat for me this morning in the offing with a rare visit to that high street store where branches int’ far north are almost none.
One of the main strengths I value so much at MMW is how it supplies to us participants the search facility to see what was said about any bottle but in this case looking for the previous, most recent Waitrose recommendations.
Top of my search-and-buy then today being both Blueprints, Romanian PN and their Riesling I’ll try for. My boy already bought me a couple of the Nivières Saumur waiting for me to take home that he got when it was on offer months ago. It’s on offer again.
So … back from Waitrose and I have a bag of discounted goodies inc. the Blueprint-two above. A quite appealing red, Costière de Nîmes and the 5* review Le Bijou Rosé De Sophie Valrose Coteaux De Béziers £11 down to £8. To complete the treat the Johannn Wolf PN that is a Spätburgunder. 5% off most everything for buying 6!
Interesting that this Soave Classico at the Co-op comes up here today. I went to Aldi last week and had their Soave Classico on a deal at silly money, £3.99 and it hit the spot too. So yes, I concur, a worthy resurgence on the banks of Lake Garda getting this wine back on track.
Now we see it-now we don’t seems to be a deliberate trend by some supermarkets now though the previously familiar, ubiquitous, cheaper-end Italian whites many just slipped off the radar over time looking to be less trendy. More fools the fashionistas.
I went to the Co-op specifically for the Saumur Cabernet Franc mentioned here too in despatches, and came away as well with their cheaper Orvieto, a repeat purchase, I like it that much, that is an evocation of re-found wine from almost 50 years back! The Prima Luna Frascati at Tesco does it for me too. Affordability against vfm is really to the fore with all these bottles.
So it was a disappointment 10 years ago when Asda dumped almost all the Wine Atlas Series range, that on reflection was way ahead of its high street competitors when offering the stuff people get excited about now with M&S Found, Morrisons Best Block etc. The more esoteric stuff seems to have caught people’s imaginations when Asda were suggesting it to us way back …. cheap too, but seemingly it failed back then!!
Still this WASeries Cinsault is back with us. The thing about the available WAS bottles now is they are still not expensive and some of the whites are outstanding models. Experimentation without the pain on the plastic being felt intensely. I was wondering if the first incarnation was a French one but South Africa it now is and delivers well as ever that grape from SA does, and I’ve enjoyed it already. Though I might suggest context and application does come into this. Chilled, outdoors, lubricating a barbecue it will even take care of cremated sausages and burgers. But it’s the conviviality and fun of quaffing something cool, affordable, plenty available, and cheerful, that works in the moment too.
Thanks for the current heads-up Brian.
Hi Brian, As the comments section is a bit quiet this week, thought you might like to hear about some wine by the glass experiences …
A while back there was an extensive MWW thread on the pitfalls, disappointments and expense of drinking wine in restaurants.
I noted that on a fleeting visit to Ramsgate I popped my head into a very attractive Victorian Pavilion that advertised any two 250ml glasses of wine for (total) £6.75. Had we had more time, and if it were a bit later than mid morning, we would have found it very pleasant sipping wine whilst looking out to sea. This was a Wetherspoon establishment, and we decided to look out for another of their outlets to give their wines a try.
Well on a recent one night stay in Tunbridge Wells, we were strolling around on a very balmy late afternoon and found one, The Old Opera House. It opened in 1902, transitioned via a Cinema to a Bingo Hall, before becoming a pub. It was very pleasant inside, maintaining an Opera House look, was nicely cool and had quite a friendly vibe. We ordered small glasses of a Cune unoaked white Rioja @ £2.69, and a Villa Maria Blush Sauvignon @ £3.06. They were both served (from bottles) nicely chilled and not oxidised. A very pleasant way to while away time before a hotel dinner. I noted that once a year they close the pub for a day to host an opera! I have to give credit to Wetherspoons for giving such sites a new lease of life, and for providing great value drinks! As I have “completist” tendencies, look forward to popping into more of their places. I can recall seeing their art deco old cinema in Whitstable called The Peter Cushing, so that might be next!
Afraid I have nothing to offer on the 2 featured wines here but as I live in East Kent I second the iconic status of the Royal Victoria Pavilion Wetherspoons that overlooks the beach by the harbour in Ramsgate. In addition to cheap wine it’s also famed for being the largest ‘spoons in the country. Love it or loathe it you have to take your hat off to the chain for repurposing prominent redundant buildings across the country.
If you’re down this way again Richard there’s two Wetherspoons pubs in the Canterbury – The West Gate Inn opposite the Westgate Towers and The Thomas Ingoldsby in Burgate next to the cathedral. But my recommendation would be a tasting of local English wines at the excellent Corkk wineshop barely 100m away on Burgate !
Regular MWW readers may recall my comments about the Co-op Don David Malbec and Cabernet on July 7th ,when I was a bit hesitant to recommend them at £11.25.
I saw them today in a tiny Co-op store for £10.65, could be less in a bigger store.Only 60p off,but my hesitancy has gone.
Both are unoaked,the Malbec combines chocolate,salt and shotgun spicy black fruit- not for the faint hearted- but rewarding.
However the winery El Esteco was particularly proud of the Cabernet (Sauvignon).To be honest if you like full bodied well crafted reds, you would do well with either or indeed both.
PS The left hand side of the brain is back in command!
Think twice before you chuck an ice cube or two into your Rosé.
I have noticed, during our two recent heatwaves, people putting ice cubes into their rosé.
Not a problem, except that quality winemakers spend a lot of time and effort in getting the balance right.With rosé wine the typical pH is 3.3.
Add ice cubes- water is pH 7- and the pH level goes up I.e. less acidic.
The wine will end up less crisp and the careful balance will be altered.
Perhaps it would be wiser to properly cool the wine, rather than direct use of ice cubes?
PS Confirmation about the LH side of the brain!
Good point Paul – and the scientific support ought to have a wider audience.