Understandably, we focus closely on changes in the retail aspects of wine.
Who has a tasty promotion, who has the best own label version of a variety and what is the effect of alcohol tax – all gobble up column inches.
Life at the other end of the process, however, can involve much bigger changes and obstacles – and over a longer time frame.
So, today, the spotlight goes on three growers.
Each has faced, and still faces, challenges and developments that we seldom consider as we clank our way home from a supermarket shop.
As a little bonus, all produce excellent wine as we shall discover later.
In the usual way, hyperlinks and pictures are used where possible to help you locate the bottle in question.
Let’s start in South Africa.
Although things are changing, South Africa’s history means that – even now – there are very few black people, and even fewer black women in the country’s wine industry.
That meant an uphill struggle lay ahead when Praisy Dlamini graduated from Elsenburg Agricultural College in 2007.
Her upbringing in Natal was unlikely to help her either – it was on a sugar cane farm and wine was actually something of a taboo in her family.
What did help, though, was being talented enough to become the first woman selected for the Cape Winemakers Guild Protégé Programme.
Further help came from support and mentorship from respected older winemakers, especially the top guys at Bosman Wines.
Encouraged by Petrus Bosman, Praisy created a majority black-owned and 100% black female-run business.
Amandla, the name her company uses, means ‘power’ or ‘strength’ in isiXhosa, and now its energetic workforce is using both to help shape the future with skill and purpose.
So, how about her wine.
2024 Amandla Shiraz Zinfandel (£9.75 at Tesco and 14% abv):
It is good to see Tesco listing this red as it is a really enjoyable option and at a competitive price.
We know that South African producers are good at blending but what is unusual here is the use of zinfandel as there is only a handful of hectares dedicated to it in the country.
Although zinfandel’s uneven ripening can make consistency a challenge, partnering it with shiraz is a great idea – lightening one component but perhaps making the other one age better.
Soft but dark in colour, this result delivers medium bodied and juicy plum, raspberry and cherry flavours.
These are accompanied here by evolving acidity and gentle tannin together with dark chocolate, butterscotch and allspice influences.
Praisy also has a sauvignon blanc in Tesco which is the same price and is soft but lively and full of attractive herbal aromas.
Now back to Europe
In Languedoc, the challenges are less about major political upheavals but more specific to the wine industry.
The region’s rise from volume producer of unspectacular “jug wines” is well documented.
I have spoken before about the skills of the midwives to this transformation and their ability to create brilliant, but great value, wines.
Often this involves grape varieties traditionally associated with elsewhere and Laurent Miquel has been masterful in doing so with viognier.
Not an easy grape to work with, its wines were once the almost exclusive preserve of a small corner of the Northern Rhone.
Now they are widely available – and more kindly priced – thanks to the endeavours of folk like him.
Trained, initially, in the Japanese sector of the motor trade, he took their continuous improvement strategies with him when he switched industries to winemaking.
No doubt, that encouraged him to try Northern Spain’s albarino grape in Languedoc and to spearhead night harvesting there.
This year a new challenge has emerged with those well reported, massive wild fires only narrowly missing his vineyards in Corbières.
While not losing all his livelihood as many nearby have, it remains to be seen whether the “smoke taint” experienced from wild fires in other places will blight Laurent’s harvest.
Looking in detail at that Viognier
2024 Laurent Miquel Vendages Nocturnes Viognier (£10 at Waitrose and 12.5%):
Harvesting at night is less common in Europe than, for example, in Australia but is a good plan in hot conditions.
Although hand harvesting obviously becomes impossible, cooler night-time temperatures play an important part in producing better quality wine – partly because they avoid fermentation starting on hot days before the grapes reach the winery, .
It helps efficiency too.
As for the wine.
Opening with classic tropical fruit aromas, it features crisp peach, mango and cooked apple flavours.
These are embellished by lively grapefruit acidity and, for balance, a floral and weighty backdrop.
Next a rosé of his.
2024 Laurent Miquel Vendages Nocturnes Rosé (£10.30 at Waitrose and 12.5%):
Once again the producer is using the night harvesting that, some say, he has pioneered in Languedoc.
While the previous wine gave a regional twist to a Rhône speciality, this is doing the same to a niche where Provence once ruled the roost – rosé.
One difference is that while only about 10% of Provence rosés omit grenache, it plays no part in this one.
Instead the blend involves just cinsault and syrah with – I am guessing – the former narrowly in the lead.
Pale in colour and adding spring flower fragrances to the mix, it exhibits textured yet smooth cranberry, cherry and peach flavours.
Enhancing those components come firm acidity with sage and olive elements to add complexity.
Moving on to Roussillon
Meanwhile, in Roussillon (one of France’s drier regions) Jean-Marc Lafage’s challenges involve applying the latest environmental practices to seven generations’ worth of winemaking expertise.
His active participation in organisations dedicated to climate action and regenerative viticulture illustrate his commitment to that philosophy.
The water scarcity already mentioned tops his priority list – and has no doubt driven his use of innovative advanced irrigation systems and rainwater harvesting techniques.
That they also help efficiency further strengthens their case.
Those twin objectives efficiency and sustainability are also fostered by practices like inter-row cover crops, encouraging birds and bats as pest control “helpmates” and experimenting with drought tolerant grape varieties.
The central theme is that biodiversity helps the land to help the vines to produce the grapes that make exceptional wines.
Based on tasting the results, I find little to argue with in that logic.
And his flagship wine.
2024 Domaine Lafage Centenaire (£13.99 at Strictly Wine and 13%):
As we saw with chardonnay, the whirligig of fashion eventually turns against big sellers and they can become – usually unjustly – “no-no” options.
While no one suggests that is yet happening to sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio, a certain ennui seems to be gaining traction.
Which wines come next is less clear – climate change has certainly helped some potential candidates (chenin blanc for example).
Others have reinvented themselves (White Rioja perhaps) while yet more gain recognition despite always being here (Edelzwicker?).
White wines using classic Rhone Valley varieties fit that last category not least because of the food friendliness of their savoury components.
This is one with a blend of grenache blanc, grenache gris and roussanne.
How it tastes
With fresh aromas and an attractive savoury edge, it provides sophisticated greengage, melon and apricot flavours.
Weighty touches of nuts and of camomile combine with lively lemon acidity to complete the picture.
Finally, his rosé.
2024 Domaine Lafage Miraflors Rosé (£16.99 at Strictly Wine but currently on offer there, and 12.5%):
When wines like the previous example first emerge it is usually at the “sweet spot” price points we mentioned a week or so back.
Often independents are among the first to recognise the potential, and using their combination of “hand selling” and customer tastings help to share the good news.
Later, supermarkets – applying Alan Sugar’s catchphrase of “smell what sells” – start listing wines like that, often using their massive buying power to secure lower selling prices.
Meanwhile, though, here is an excellent premium rosé this producer has created that several “indies” have started to appreciate.
It uses the same two grenache varieties as the white but derives its colour from the portion of mourvedre included in the blend.
And the taste
Sensationally aromatic, it contains distinctive crab apple, ripe pear and red currant flavours.
They strike up a partnership with bright acidity and suggestions of strawberry and orange supported by a contrasting savoury elements.
Tune in again on Monday when value at budget price points is, once more, the theme of my latest Top Tips post.
16 responses
What a great post, Brian. Thanks indeed. It’s so interesting to get a bit of technical detail. Both Amandla wines will be in my basket when I next visit Tesco – especially with the current 25% off for 6 promotion – and what a treat the Languedoc now gives us to be able to afford the food-friendly viognier – one of my favourite white wines.
Thanks David …. The red is especially good – the zin makes a real difference.
Another bonus of Amandla wines is the distinctive and beautifully-designed labels. I’d like to try out the Malbec/Pinotage blend from its range too, which I understand is available in the UK but only in restaurants.
Hi Rebecca,
Good to hear from a fellow label enthusiast.
I sometimes get mildly chided for my appreciation of well designed informative wine labels.
Agree the Amandla labels are top notch.A bit reminiscent of Carmen Miranda.Can’t go wrong with flowers,butterflies and goodness me,I have spotted a bird!( in joke)
Great content here, Brian. I had no idea about the Amandla wines and am definitely keen to try the Shiraz Zinfandel.
The Laurent Miquel Vendages Nocturnes Viognier is a long time favourite of mine and I can still remember slowly figuring out the ‘nocturnal harvest’ bit with my schoolboy French.
Of course there are a fair number of supermarket own-label wines that Laurant Miquel supplies too, all of which are reliable wines. At Sainsburys, for example, the Taste the Difference St Chinian red, the TtD Pinot Noir IGP Pays d’Oc and the TtD Viognier, to name just three.
Very useful to know about those Sainsbury’s wines – thanks!
Good article, Brian, thanks – always good to understand the back stories.
A couple of years ago I very much enjoyed the 2022 Laurent Miquel Albarino @ £11.50 from Sainsburys. Much talk of the merits of Spain vs Portugal for this grape, now France (& other countries) are getting in on the act!
Sainsbury’s currently stock this (not sure what vintage) at £12.50 – but on a Nectar offer of £10.50. If anyone is contemplating a 25% off package, this would be a fine addition!
Inexpensive Pinot Noir? Had a call from my son – he had 3 bottles of Pinot Noir he would like to share with us. After all the years of child raising, good to get some payback. The examples were: 2024 Waitrose Blueprint PN 12.5% ABV, £7; 2023 Asda North Canterbury 13.5%, £9.33; 2024 Errazuriz Estate Reserve, 13% £10 at Waitrose, but £8.08 on offer at Asda.
We tasted them blind, and correctly identified the Chilean wine. This had nicely integrated oak to give the reserve feel, and an excellent funky farmyard nose. We really enjoyed this, at £8.08 plus rollback and possible 25% offer, most attractive. (If you don’t mind the farmyard aspect). I mixed up the other 2 wines, which seemed more pure red fruit driven. The Romanian Blueprint I thought excellent. I’ve drunk 2023 vintage which was fine, but the 2024 I enjoyed more. The NZ wine was also excellent. So a great trio of good value wines. (Tim called into Waitrose the next day and bought some more of the Blueprint wine on the current 25% off offer.)
Afterwards Tim said that he chose these wines after viewing a YouTube video of the amusingly irreverent Tom Gilbey’s “Best Pinot Noirs for UNDER £10! (And The One To AVOID)’, which included these 3 wines. If you want to know what other wine he tasted and hated, look up the video!
Brian’s recommended Asda Burdizzo Chianti is now on mix six deal,25% of wines over £7.At original price of £7.07 it is now £5.30.Unbelivable value for the quality.
I have previously recommended Extra Special Crëmant d’ Alsace.Lowest price for this delicious.
price I have ever seen-£7.48
Fancy a high quality rosé at £5.98 on deal. I doubt if you can find better VFM rosé.
Want to dip your toe into Orange Wine?Have an inexpensive go with the Gros Manseng Vin Orange £5.87.You might like it!
Richard mentioned the very decent Asda North Canterbury Pinot Noir.Well does £7 suit you?
Asda might be struggling in the supermarket stakes, but the wine department is fully on song and for me offers a far greater range of high quality wines at a terrific discount than the German discounters who are no longer as cheap as they used to be.Tin hat!
The difference between harvesting grapes at night compared to later in the afternoon next day can be 0.5% abv lower.
The Laurent Miquel Nocturnes Viognier is a great drop,his Languedoc Albariño was less successful.
Lastly SA winemakers need all the help they can get.Facing incredible Trump tariffs of 31% and reportedly nightmare bureaucracy and stonking duty increases selling to the UK,they deserve our support.
PS I also recommended Asda Exceptional Austrian Riesling to sceptics.£6.11.Surely worth a go?
When I get back from Asda tomorrow with yet more bottles, I will admit to my wife that I’ve come under the influence of a persuasive wine enthusiast who is leading me astray. Perhaps she will forgive you if I open the Crëmant d’ Alsace to celebrate her 13 year old car passing its MOT yesterday?
Interested in your comment about the Languedoc Albariño. I remember Jane MacQ recommending the 2022 – “it will knock your socks off” was her comment. I bought a bottle and thought it excellent. But of course a different vintage is a different wine … I feel an Albariño 3 way blind tasting coming on, but only after my Chianti one (thanks Keith E for reminding me that the Waitrose No 1 Chianti offer ran out on Tuesday, I got one in time).
Well Richard, apologies ,but I have another well deserved recommendation.I have just opened a Wine Atlas Garda Vino Spumante DOC brut fizz.11%abv.
Much better than many a prosecco and for those who find prosecco too sweet ,this is enjoyably dry, tangerine and peachy.Made from garganega grape and by the Charmat method- same way as prosecco.Very enjoyable.
At a ridiculous £5.23 on deal.
Well, talking of garganega, a further saunter around Aldi yesterday resulted in a bottle of Soave Classico 2024 reduced to £3.99. As Eddie Walker noted here on 21 July this is selling it for “silly money” and I agree with him that it hit the spot too.
Also Paul, I know your fascination with the detail of wine labels so here’s a question: The back label of the Soave bottle had 2 dire warnings in capitals and IN RED which I don’t see on my other wines – 1) “Drinking alcohol causes liver disease”, and 2) “There is a direct link between alcohol and fatal cancers”. Is Aldi Soave particularly renowned for its potential to kill you???? Another wine from Aldi, the Specially Selected Godello, does not carry the same threats.
The only anomaly I could otherwise see was in smaller print below – ‘Visit http://www.askaboutalcohol.ie‘. I can only presume the Soave was bottled for the Irish market and customers there are so fearful of the health warning that Aldi in desperation have had to ship it to England to sell it off cheap
Good to see that Godello is risk free as I really rate it,even at £9.99?
You and perhaps others may be interested in the following under reported research:
Beneficial effects of moderate drinking compared with the level of potential risk.
A recent study analysed data from Nurses’ Health Study 1980-2014 and Health Professionals follow up study 1986 -2014 to estimate healthy life expectancy free from cancer, Type 2 diabetes and cardiovascular disease.
5 low risk lifestyle factors.
Never smoking
Normal BMI- Body Mass Index
Moderate to vigorous physical activity
Moderate alcohol intake
Higher diet quality score
Excluding alcohol and using the other four factors the longer healthy life expectancy for women was 9.5 years ,for men 8.8 years compared to those who had none of these factors.
When moderate alcohol consumption was included, so now all five factors,women had 12.5 healthy years longer and men 9.6 years longer.
Moderate wine drinking is a very low risk activity.
So a very small absolute risk increase in cancer mortality does not necessarily translate into increased overall mortality as long as moderate drinking is part of a cluster of healthy lifestyle habits.
All enjoyable activities are associated with some level of personal risk.
Source BMJ 2020 research studies named above.
Typos.I got over excited by offers.
25% off.
Unbelievable
Delicious fizz.
After that I seemed to have calmed down!
I missed out the Rosé as well!
Arc du Soleil.£5.98.
I need an editor.
Geart post Brian! I always think wines like thes are worth a £ or two extra.
You are buying one person’s wine, as they made it. That is quite a contrast to the impersonal own-brand wines made with bought-in parcels, vinified in one place, bottled in another .. perfectly good wines no doubt, but I just like to know the winemaker where I can, and lessen the number of stages between vineyard and me. It is a big part of what makes wine such an interesting drink to me.
Forgot .. 25% off six at Morrisons now. The Block Series Chenin Blanc, A multi-vineyard blend (see post above!) but £15 reduced to ten, then less 25% makes it exactly half price .. excellent wine at that price.