Let’s start today with a Puglian red that provides a European accent to the zinfandel debate we had a few weeks back.
Remember, then, we discovered that zin and the primitivo found in Italy (and, to a lesser extent, elsewhere) are one and the same grape.
Here is a modern example of European versions.
A Different Puglian Answer to the Zinfandel Question
2025 Primitivo Puglia (£8 at M&S and Ocado and 12.5% abv):
Traditionally, Primitivo’s reputation rested on substantial, high-alcohol reds suited to hearty winter cooking. Cooler-time picking and gentle but sure-footed work in the cellar are now yielding brighter, more approachable wines like this one.
Deep purple in the glass and yielding up red fruit aromas, this is medium-bodied primitivo delivering damson and loganberry flavours.
Those are supported by lively acidity and gentle tannin along with hints of chocolate, allspice, vanilla.
New Zealand Whites: A Little Less Sharp Than Usual Perhaps
Sharp acidity has long been a feature of sauvignon from New Zealand’s Marlborough region. It was an important factor in the variety’s rocket-like ascent in popularity from an almost standing start.
Indeed, it remains important in the top-level regional versions, where dedicated work goes into getting its balance with the variety’s herbal and tropical fruit influences just right.
At entry-point levels, however, one might speculate that big producers’ focus groups are urging a little more caution with acidity – but there could be other factors at work.
Whatever the reason, recent vintages of several important supermarket versions do seem to be slightly less assertive, with commentators noting a touch of sweetness taking the edge off potential tartness in several popular brands.
Why might that be?
Some attribute this to small increases in residual sugar levels being used to round things out. That is by no means new but may, perhaps, be getting wider use.
However, the trend is not universal, reminding us that variations do exist even among big brands.
I have not seen specific sales data, but whatever softening has occurred does not seem to have dimmed the broad commercial appeal of New Zealand sauvignon in pubs or for those simply relaxing with a glass of white wine at home.
Here are two subtly different versions (both on offer at present) but which place perceived acidity less in the foreground.
One, Squealing Pig, tends a bit more towards orange-based influences while Villa Maria (often considered a benchmark) is a bit more traditional with its gooseberry emphasis.
Sauvignon That Works a Little Harder
2025 Squealing Pig Sauvignon Blanc (£7.75 – down from £11 until 2 September – at Asda and 11% abv):
This does work a little harder than some of the more formula-driven NZ sauvignons.
Crisp and well textured for its alcohol level, it opens with enticingly fresh aromas before leading you into its grassy grapefruit and tangerine flavours.
Zip is provided by tangy lime acidity with complexity added through hints of green herbs, mint and bell pepper.
New Zealand’s Most-Awarded Winery
2025 Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc (£8.75 – down from £11 until 7 September – with a Tesco Clubcard and 12% abv):
Founded in 1961 by 21-year-old George Fistonich on five leased Auckland acres, Villa Maria has grown into New Zealand’s most-awarded winery; Britain is now its top export market.
Grassy and nettle-like aromas introduce this well-known Villa Maria example, which then offers us ripe mango, gooseberry and passion fruit flavours.
BUSY SHOPPER SUMMARY – The Short Version
Which wine should I buy? 2025 M&S Primitivo Puglia
Where, how much and what abv? £8 at M&S and Ocado and 12.5% abv:
Why should I buy it? It’s a modern, restrained and approachable example of the variety.
What does it taste like? Medium-bodied primitivo with damson, loganberry and chocolate flavours.
***
Which wine should I buy? 2025 Squealing Pig Sauvignon Blanc
Where, how much and what abv? £7.75 – down from £11 until 2 September – at Asda and 11% abv:
Why should I buy it? It is a step up from purely formula-driven versions and has an attractive flavour range.
What does it taste like? Grassy grapefruit, tangerine and herbal flavours accompany its enticingly fresh aromas.
***
Which wine should I buy? 2025 Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc:
Where, how much and what abv? £8.75 – down from £11 until 7 September – with a Tesco Clubcard and 12% abv:
Why should I buy it? It is almost a benchmark for Marlborough sauvignon, immensely popular in the UK and at a good price.
What does it taste like? Ripe mango, gooseberry and passion fruit flavours are embellished with controlled lime acidity.
If it is a Bank Holiday where you are, enjoy the day – helped, perhaps, by today’s recommendations – but come back next Monday to see what else is being commended here.
16 responses
Who would have guessed that in 1975 when the first Sauvignon Blanc vines were planted in Marlborough NZ that it would become a world wide success and now accounts for nearly 90% of NZ wine exports.
At £8.75 your Tesco Villa Maria is a bargain,. I would also suggest that the Ned SB in Asda on 3 for £20 offer is well worth a look. I find it richer and rounder than many SB’s.
It is a pity that the success of SB crowds out the very good NZ Chardonnays and Pinot Gris that are well worth exploring.
Good point about other NZ whites, Paul. Its pinot gris in particular is seriously underestimated and – I understand – is what the smart young people of Auckland choose ahead of sauvignon.
I can answer that for you Paul, except that it was on 11th August 1973 that the first commercial Sauvignon Blanc vines were planted in Marlborough.
Brancott Estate, based in Aucland, was New Zealand’s largest wine priducer. They wanted to expand their vineyards but did the research and learned that Marlborough had maximum sunshine, minimum rainfall, especially during harvest, free draining soil that wasn’t too fertile, and freedom from seasonal frosts. So convinced were they that they bought up 1200 Ha of inconsequential sheep land, without revealing their intentions.
As the vines were planted, to the bemusement of local sheep farmers, Brancott’s founder, Frank Yukich declared “Wines from here will become world famous”
It wasn’t guesswork.
Not heard from you for a while, Edwin, so good to have you back. As you say, that was a brilliant initiative by Montana (as they then were – and until they started exporting to the USA) and a classic win/win. Those South Island sheep farmers were keen to diversify because the UK’s admission to the (then) European Common Market would impair their export trade in NZ lamb.
I was in local Asda on Saturday and the Villa Maria Private Bin SB was £8.75 there too. Better still it is one of there 3 for £20 wine offers which makes it an incredible less than £7 a bottle. Not sure this is just a Bank Holiday offer or for longer but it’s still 3 for £20 on the website today (Monday)
Thanks for the heads up, Keith. Like you I am struggling to find an end date to the promotion so this may be an offer only for the fleet of foot.
Morning Brian
Villa Maria is still one of my wife’s favourite Sovee’s and it is good, but as you say I have noticed recent bottles have been a little less intense, especially on the acidity front, to it’s benefit I suggest.
I agree with Paul there are some very good alternatives if you’re a Sovee lover, Pinot Gris for one.
Primitivo is always a safe bet, appealing to the majority and this M&S sounds good.
Dialling down acidity slightly does seem to be an increasing trend – to the joy of dentists all over the UK I guess. Speaking of dialling down, that primitivo does something similar with the variety’s traditional weightiness.
Good to see the trend to less alcohol. Proof, from your Primitivo notes, that this can be successfully achieved, in a natural way, with good results. The number of drinkers really comfortable with buying 14% or higher wines, I suspect will continue to dwindle.
BTW popped into my local Morrisons this morning, and, hot on the heels of their just expired 25% off 6 offer, they have 30% off for 3 on (usually very reliable) The Best wines. Must be multiples of 3, and runs until Sept 22nd.
Thanks, Richard. Multi-buy promotions (where they are permitted) seem to be coming thick and fast now. Good news for wine drinkers but less so for those brilliant “indies”.
I thing the M&S Primitivo is really interesting, thanks Brian, I’ll give that a try. Generally I find Californian Zinfandel very drinkable, and some of them are amongst my favourite wines anywhere, but I find I dislike European Primitivos despite them being the same grape. Clearly the harvest and production are different. Maybe the M&S selection will be more to my taste.
Good to hear from you Mike and thanks for joining the comments section. That M&S wine may not have the twists of sweetness or butterscotch of classic zinfandel but it certainly does not have the heartiness of many Puglia versions which may be the part that you do not enjoy. Either way, it hope it works for you.
Fascinating information here. Thank you Brian. I would, however, like to understand the meaning of “approachable” with regard to wine.
Whenever I hear it I I imagine the cork exploding in my face!
Does it just mean the wine doesn’t taste good?
Really good question, John, which I can only answer from a personal perspective about what it means here. However, it has made me stop and think about what I mean by it. Except when implying that an expensive wine is largely “crowd pleasing”, it is seldom a criticism, and never so on this website.
Rather, it indicates – to me – a wine ready for immediate drinking (no time consuming decanting or storage needed), revealing (especially) its fruit centred “taste-alikes” as soon as taste buds touch it and involving few complications or things only insiders will spot and appreciate.
I hope that allays your tongue-in-cheek combustion fears – which, happily, can safely be re-directed to the new series of “Trigger Point”.
Update on Asda 3 for £20 on Ned SB and Villa Maria.Not to be confused with 3 for £18 and Rollback and other offers.
Talked with Deputy Manager of Wrexham Asda today and she thought it did not finish at Bank Holiday Monday and said Asda usually change wine prices on a Thursday, so there might be a few days left to get incredible value in
i.e Ned for £6.67 a bottle!
The Guild are off to Tenerife this Thursday ,not literally unfortunately,but certainly exploring it’s wines via Chester and warning of the dangers of Mount Teide. Please join us on the adventure.
Thanks for the tips on promotion dates from an Asda insider. As for Canary Island wine – there are some really interesting wines there, so it should be a good read.