Years ago there was a TV pop show called Juke Box Jury – you may need to ask your granny to tell you about it!
There, music professionals assessed new record releases but, if they failed to agree, the presenter went to a “second jury”.
These were (or appeared to be) three people taken from the audience who represented what the person in the street thought.
So, I have stolen the idea for my review of the latest Lidl Wine Tour.
Out for the current exercise, then, go my time-honoured (time worn?) judgement processes and any prejudices they may have built up.
Instead, I used some level headed, open minded, regular wine drinkers (with never a nerd in sight) to decide what to feature.
In short, people pretty much like many of you.
My role was then to wrap descriptive words around the wines that this panel had decided were “Hits”.
As is normal here, pictures and hyperlinks are provided where possible to guide you straight to the right wine on shelf or, in this case, wooden box.
The first of two Portuguese whites
2023 Paço de Bispo Palmela (£7.49 at Lidl while stocks last and 12.5% abv):
Over the bridge from Lisbon, you find the Peninsular de Setubal – an area with a burgeoning reputation for wine production.
This offering from there is almost certainly a blend but, I fancy from its aromatic and acidity balance, with Portugal’s fernão pires grape well to the fore.
Textured with tropical fruit aromas, the result exhibits bright, red apple, peach and honeysuckle flavours.
These are supported by sharp lime acidity with, in the wings, a spice and floral background.
And from the same region
2024 Vinha do Rosário Weisswein Viosinho (£7.99 at Lidl while stocks last and 13%):
Viosinho grapes are often used to provide valued substance and weight to blends (indeed, it is a recognised component of white port) – but, here, the variety is allowed out on its own
Although it was once considered largely a variety of Northern Portugal, in this case it has strayed into the homeland of our previous wine – the Peninsular of Setubal.
Viscous with peach centred depth, this example brings us rich apple, pear and under-ripe mango flavours embellished by gentle acidity.
A soft creamy texture that also contains a fudge element add additional smoothness to a white that secured the nod from the panel over this Wine Tour’s Sicilian Viognier.
On to the reds.
2024 Passamano Frappato Syrah (£6.99 at Lidl while stocks last and 14%):
Once again, this (white packaged) red gets murmurs of approval, indicating that I may have sold it short by describing it as a “summer wine”.
Light it may be but its firm fruitiness – encouraged, no doubt, by Siclilan sunshine – substantial alcohol and the extra backbone syrah provides suggests it may be “all year” fare.
Opening with aromas of dark fruit, the wine then reveals its light bodied and uncomplicated raspberry, strawberry and cherry flavours.
Sharp acidity (but little tannin) combines nicely with that foundation – as do suggestions of caramel, mint and nutmeg.
Staying in Italy.
2024 Duca di Sasseta Primitivo (£8.49 at Lidl while stocks last and 14.5%):
Most of this retailer’s Wine Tours seem to include an “appassite” offering, illustrating perhaps that the resulting richness is becoming increasingly popular with consumers.
That word, appassite, on the label means that a proportion, at least, of the grapes used have been “dried” – thereby making the resulting wine more intense and concentrated.
Rich and attractively dark, the version displays very smooth damson, mulberry and blackberry flavours.
These are accompanied by good acidity, firm tannin and a mineral style savoury edge along with touches of cocoa, vanilla and butterscotch.
Next off to Spain.
2023 Violet Garnacha Tempranillo (£9.99 at Lidl while stocks last and 14%):
Navarra – a next door region to Rioja – often gives us more kindly priced alternatives to wines from that illustrious neighbour.
Here it does so with a classic blend of two grapes that often partner one another in Rioja itself.
Dark in colour but medium bodied, it delivers damson, loganberry and coffee flavours that sit harmoniously beneath its strawberry aromas.
Firm tannin, but balanced citrus acidity, with a cinnamon and Galaxy chocolate finish completes the picture.
Now for the Panel’s top choice.
2023 SEM Reservas Colheita Selecionda (£6.99 at Lidl while stocks last and 14.5%):
Although Portugal’s Dao region wins accolades for its progress, never underestimate the excellent wines from Lisboa.
Its micro-climates help produce good value wines of remarkable diversity often showcasing the best of indigenous grape varieties.
Smooth with just a whiff of sweetness, this example features smooth and lingering cherry, plum and red currant flavours.
Helping to secure it “Star of the Show” status for this panel is the partnership of those characteristics with supplementary hints of rosemary, menthol and vanilla.
Finally, to me, a surprise.
2024 Orange Sunset (£7.99 at Lidl while stocks last and 11.5%):
Orange wine, like this, is white wine made using red winemaking techniques, with extended skin contact during fermentation.
Like many commentators, I have long regarded it as a niche offering.
However, the enthusiasm here for this nicely configured French example suggests that the style may be becoming more mainstream.
Distinctive and smooth, it has tasty tangerine, nectarine and red apple flavours supported by mild acidity and a marmalade centred depth.
Call in again on Monday when the spotlight falls on Top Tips involving other retailers that offer especially good value at a store near you.
22 responses
Good morning Brian,
or should I say David Jacobs?
How do you find the room for that enormous Juke Box playing 7 inch vinyl singles?
The only fly in your cunning plan is that,if memory serves me right, in the case of a tie,then the second jury of three selected from the audience were all teenagers- too young to drink!
Inspired by your imaginative copy ,I am considering introducing Hit or Miss paddles to my local wine society events.
Actually hit or miss paddles is a great idea – as J Clarkson would say “All Vote Now”. It would avoid any overly loud participants inhibiting others from declaring what they really think.
That is a very good point, Brian. I enjoy drinking and learning about wine, and my confidence grows with experience. But g*bsh*tes can knock that nascent confidence, so thank you for recognising that issue..
You are providing a great service, keep up the good work in a world where neophytes need to be led gently upmarket!
Thank you for your kind words, Bernard, and I, too, have seen folk inhibited from expressing a valid and helpful view by the loudest person in the room. Even face-screwing non-verbals or throwaway “This is awful” comments can, probably unwittingly, dissuade others from giving the honest view that you really want to hear. Coincidentally, Richard’s adjacent comment neatly describes the stairway that, as you say, can gently lead the willing newcomer towards the spectacular wines that await only a notch or two up the market.
Top of the Pops is getting all the publicity these days with host Pete Murray’s 100th birthday on September 19th – and he’s still working on radio!
Ah! Boom radio – Clever concept all done from home with relatively minor costs
Boom radio!! Unbeatable!!
Good to hear from you Nigel. It is always nice when niche operations like that work well – or is that just me.
Sorry for my senior moment – of course I should have said Juke Box Jury as per Brian’s inspiration for this review. And panellist not host. But back to the wines: the 2023 SEM Reservas Colheita Selecionda looks just up my street – and not just because it’s joint cheapest.
Interestingly the Wine Society has a Setubal white wine (Sino Grande) from Casa Ermelinda Freitas that I have much enjoyed and it’s only £7.25. However it’s a blend – fernão pires, antão vaz and verdelho – rather than the straight viosinho of Brian’s recommendation but nonetheless illustrates that the German discounters are nothing like as competitive on price as they used to be. I also think that Lisboa and Setubal – on opposite banks of the Tagus river – offer some of the very best High St value in everyday wines.
Let us be charitable and instead say the Wine Society is much more competitive on price than it used to be ..
£7.25 for a decent wine is competitive by any measure.
Here is what I posted on this site on June 9 th,this year-
‘There is often hidden value to be found in South Africa and Portugal.
A favourite white of mine is the Wine Society ‘s Casa Ermelinda Freitas ‘Sino Grande’ Branco, Península de Setúbal 2024 £7.25.One of Portugal’s biggest and best wineries making delicious and affordable authentic wines with tons of charm.
Great value,but then value is relative.
I have just come out of a supermarket in Funchal,Madeira and bought the same wine as a single bottle for 1.99 Euros.”
Since I do not like to buy wines which come from far away (long transport, high carbon footprint) I do really appreciate this interesting choice of european wines – I have to have a look at my local (german) Lidl store! Thank you!
Good to hear from you Elke and glad the selection works for you. I know that some of the Lidl Wine Tour choices are available in Europe but not sure that all of them are.
Just an update on Brian’s Sem Reservas star red.The back label says it is 13.5% abv, not 14.5%.
Sem Reservas means ” Without reservations” ,so for example, Sem Problema is used to say “No problem’,even though it literally means ” without problem”.
Colheita Selecionada means ” Selected Harvest”.
Very useful these label things.
Thus endeth today’s sermon in Portuguese.
Hi Brian, I was recently in Sainsburys – and on my shopping list was a bottle of inexpensive “cooking wine” for my wife. Browsing the bottom shelves I spied the NV House Pinot Noir – which I recalled that you recommended, @ £5.50 in early September, as an excellent value “gateway” to Pinot Noir.
So I bought a bottle and before passing it on to the cook, we drank it side-by-side with a 2019 Chanson Bourgogne Pinot Noir which I bought from TWS (after a tasting). That was £14.95, less 10% discount for those who attended the event.
Well I thought it a perfect “Gateway” vs “Sweetspot” comparison. The House bottle clearly displayed PN qualities, although “thinner” and more “simple’ than the Bourgogne – which was deeper in colour, flavour and with a touch more complexity. But they were both of a similar style. So if one enjoyed the House wine, and wanted to splurge a bit more on a more expensive PN, you probably would not be disappointed. But more importantly, if one thought the House wine rather thin, feeble and lacking obvious ripe fruit, it is possible that you would find, say, a Shiraz or Lisboa wine a more acceptable splurge candidate? And that, I think, is the point of the “Gateway” – “Sweetspot” – “Aspirational” tiered concept!
Whether the other wine was “worth” that much more is an individual judgement – a topic that has been aired in the past on this forum. But, personally, I don’t always want to drink complex wines, and for a midweek sausage & mash I would happily drink this House PN wine.
A footnote is that the cook was tolerant of the fact that half of her cooking wine was drunk before being handed over. So I have been directed to have a further bottom shelf trawl. Perhaps I can pick out another successful Gateway style wine?
Thank you Richard for your support for the three step “escalator” that this site tries to embrace. “Gateway” wines are increasingly difficult to find with their careful balance between price and providing authentic signposts towards what to expect from wines a rung or two up the quality (and, inevitably, price) ladder. However, many of them – as you report – are themselves enjoyable complements to everyday food as they are in most wine producing countries.
2023 Paço de Bispo Palmela £7.49 ,now £6.49 with Lidl plus card.
Brian was right to suspect Fernāo Pires is the main grape in this blend.Typically 70% Fernão Pires and equally 10% Verdelho,Arinto and Moscatel- although the mix can vary from vintages.
A very knowledgeable wine friend suggested that this vintage needed a bit more time in the bottle.
Thanks Brian. Enjoyed Paço de Bispo Palmela as a good combination with roast chicken. Worth adding currently £1 off for Lidl Plus members although wasn’t automatically deducted at the till and had to contact Customer Service to get discount applied!
Yes, my latest Lidl Plus visit produced yet again the predictable row at the till – “this specific store currently isn’t part of that Lidl Plus discount promo and yes even though it’s a clearly an in store / within dates & non selective Lidl Plus offer for that wine on our website”.
Didn’t chase up again as 3 bottles at £1 each discount missed = irritating.
Needs a leading UK Consumers Wine Guru (Brian ?) to advise Lidl HQ that its misleading & just ain’t good enough.
Regards 🍷
Will pass it on but I fear that my voice is but a small one where major retailers are concerned.
Hi Brain,
Thank you again for your efforts & output.
Regards 🍷