Today’s post may feel a bit like turning the clock back.
It centres on recommendation of a claret and of a Spanish white much as a wine column might have done 30 years ago.
There is a difference though – and a big one.
First, with help from technology, white wines from hot parts of Europe have improved almost beyond recognition from the dull, flabby versions of yesteryear.
Secondly, producers from Bordeaux have devoted massive effort into creating “everyday reds” that appeal to today’s drinkers but are modestly priced.
Personally, I think both of these examples illustrate what success in both those endeavours looks like.
I hope you share my enthusiasm.
Adopting my traditional format, images and, where possible, hyperlinks accompany the assessments of the wines.
First, though, off to Spain
2024 The Gathering Storm (£7 at Majestic and 12% abv):
Oak influenced chardonnay and verdejo are at the heart of this brilliant, great value Spanish white blend.
It’s from the acclaimed producer of several excellent Majestic wines from that country.
Textured and delightfully smooth, this example delivers distinctive greengage, peach and pear flavours.
Support for that foundation comes in the shape of good citrus acidity with a gentle (fennel based) savoury twist and suggestions of other herbs, grapefruit peel and vanilla.
Then that Everyday Bordeaux.
2023 M&S Chateau Bel-Air (currently £8 in M&S physical stores and in Ocado – and 13.5% abv):
Yes, I know that claret’s earthy, mineral character isn’t for everyone especially in these days when fruit forward wines are so popular.
However, this offers the perfect introduction to the region’s characteristics for anyone ready to discover red Bordeaux’s delights.
Dark with trademark vegetal aromas, it contains savoury edged prune, bramble and chocolate flavours.
These are coupled here with firm tannin, neatly balanced acidity and hints of menthol, sage and cinnamon.
The next post (on Thursday) takes a different approach and reveals what has inspired selected subscribers to become wine enthusiasts.
10 responses
Good timing. Was passing through the wine aisle in M&S yesterday, saw the Chateau Bel-Air and said to my wife “We must try some of these basic Bordeaux reds. I’ve heard they’re good and they seem decent value these days”. Actually we bought a bottle of the M&S Found Scheurebe (which seems to have also generated some interest) but, following Brian’s validation this morning, I’ll be back for the Bordeaux today.
I noticed, with interest, that Will Lyon’s piece in yesterday’s Sunday Times magazine was titled “10 wines for £5”.
Was pleased to see the following 2 wines included, which I had tasted and thought very decent and were great value …
2024 Vista Castelli Trebbiano d’Abruzzo (11%) Tesco, £5
Le Manoir du Baron Sauvignon Blanc (11%) Asda, £5.14
The 2024 Vin de France Pinot Noir (12%) from Lidl, £4.95 was also included. Several times I have seen this on the shelves and contemplated buying – to see how it compared with the Asda equivalent, the Le Manoir PN, or the Sainsbury’s House PN, as recommended by Brian recently. At these prices, worst case scenario is to give the unfinished bottles to your appreciative in-house chef for cooking wine duties!
Incidentally, last week I participated in a Zoom tasting, with small sample bottles, of Australian Pinot Noir wines. The (bottle) list prices ranged from £15 to just over £30, so a clear step up from the above wines. But very impressive: modest alcohol levels; barely noticeable oak; tasted and smelt like elegant PNs. I suspect, like many contributors, I have to reset my expectations for the excellent modern Aussie wines!
Hello Richard,
A great start would be Tesco Finest Western Australian Sauvignon ( Blanc) Semillon .A classic Bordeaux type white blend .Good value at top price of £9,when on offer, this aromatic energetic silver award winner, is a steal.
Not one, not two but eleven birds on the label!
Did Will Lyons include Morrisons Soave at £4.85?,if not,he missed a very decent drop.
I would have stretched his definition to include Tesco Vista Castelli Montepulciano d’ Abruzzo at £5.50.
Went to Majestic in Wrexham today in search of Brian’s Gathering Storm Spanish white,but did not want a big outlay buy six bottles on any mix deal.
Pleasantly surprised to be offered a tasting of said wine from open bottle- does not happen in say Aldi-and confirmed Brian’s positive review.Even better a single bottle was only £7.50, only 50p dearer than on six deal.Grateful purchase.
I am finding that the gap between single bottle price and multi buy price on some wines is narrowing at Majestic which is a good thing.
I just wish that Majestic offered a buy three deal,even if it was only on their pricier wines.
Could someone post the other £5 wines recommendations from the Sunday Times? Thanks
Herewith Will Lyon’s Sunday Times Magazine’s recommendations …
NV Lateral Cabernet Sauvignon Chile (11%) Tesco, £4.49
2024 Malbec Vin de Pays France (12.5%) Lidl, £4.79
NV Pierre Jaurant Sauvignon Blanc France (11%) Aldi, £4.85
2024 Vin de France Pinot Noir France (12%) Lidl, £4.95
2024 Vista Castelli Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Italy (11%) Tesco, £5
Le Manoir du Baron Sauvignon Blanc France (11%) Asda, £5.14
2022 Bordeaux AOP France (13.5%) Lidl, £5.49
2024 South African White South Africa (11%) Co-op, £5.15
2022 Setanera Merlot Terre d’Abruzzo Italy (11%) Tesco, £5.75
NV Estevez Valle Central MerlotChile (11%) Aldi, £4.15
Feel that I should also give a plug for Will’s excellent podcast “Wine Times”
Thanks Richard much appreciated for a tight git!
Thanks Brian, I will get down to Majestic for that Spanish White, sounds nice. I’ve been spoilt last week whilst visiting the Rioja Region of Spain staying in the capital Logroño, reds were sublime but we tasted a white blend of Maturana Blanca and Garnacha Blanca, never heard of Maturana, an ancient native variety with small clusters only found in the region, it was vibrant, tangy, but with some baked apples and almonds, certainly different and very enjoyable.
Bordeaux, is where I struggle but I’m willing to try the M&S one out
I must admit I don’t understand the current lack of enthusiasm for Bordeaux rouge. Haven’t tried the M&S Bel-Air but will after I return from my short break in the M&S desert that is this part of Cornwall. I happen to be enjoying a wonderful Cotes de Bourg 2023 that I bought for about €5 in Lille Carrefour recently. With such a large area under vines Bordeaux still gives excellent value at the MidWeek level!
Hi David, I do find it hard seeking out good affordable Bordeaux’s, and I’ve tried a lot, most are too green and too young, not to say that there aren’t any good ones around, that’s where Brian comes in, hopefully steering us to the better bottles, where I have found joy is with ‘Lalande de Pomerol’ and to a certain extent ‘Montagne St Emilion’ Right bank is my preferred choice. Trouble is there so many wines I enjoy ahead of Bordeaux.
Hello from sunny Lafkos on the Greek Pelion,where red wine is absent and only white and rosé are on offer.The Moschofilero and SB blends are very tasty.
Let’s be somewhat controversial,I think the white Bordeaux blends of SB, Semillon and Muscadelle are underrated and far better than many a cheap red trad Bordeaux.