Wine regions can undergo remarkable transformations, and here are stories about two of them.
And, as you would expect, today’s selections contain an inexpensive example from each.
Portugal’s Dao spent much of the late twentieth century trapped in mediocrity under a cooperative system that many thought stifled quality.
Latterly, though, producers there have worked hard to reclaim its historical reputation for elegant, characterful reds – and are still doing so.
Meanwhile, South African chenin blanc (sometimes using its alternative name “Steen”) was simply a high-yielding workhorse grape used primarily for brandy and bulk blends.
Nowadays, however, it climbs the quality ladder to provide exciting expressions of that very versatile variety.
Both transformations share common threads:
- a return to respecting old vines, overlooked varieties and traditional vineyard sites.
- reduced intervention in winemaking, and,
- producers committed to expressing terroir rather than chasing international styles.
The two wines featured here offer impressive value, while also showcasing the transformation that patience, investment and renewed quality focus has achieved.
In the usual way, hyperlinks and pictures are used where possible to help you locate the bottle in question.
Starting in Portugal
2021 Extra Special Dao (£6.97 at Asda and 13% abv):
This Portuguese red demonstrates how well Dao wines have evolved from last century’s unspectacular predecessors.
It exhibits a dark, mineral character with liquorice undertones, offering polished damson, bramble and cherry flavours throughout.
Lively acidity and smooth tannins provide an excellent backdrop while gentle hints of cocoa, cinnamon and rosemary add intriguing complexity.
Even after several years of aging – or perhaps because of them – this wine keeps on giving.
Then the South African example.
2025 Meadowlands Chenin Blanc (£8.50 in M&S and Ocado and also 13%):
This newly harvested South African chenin blanc offers a bright and laudable clarity and refreshing crispness that immediately cossets the palate.
It features generous melon and peach notes alongside hints of red apple, creating a well-rounded and approachable fruit-like character.
Sharp lime acidity underlines that freshness and balance, while subtle citrus undertones add complexity to the overall profile.
Lemon curd texture gives the wine a pleasing weight and smoothness that lingers gently through the finish.
See you again on Thursday when we take a look at the latest Lidl Wine Tour.
5 responses
I was intrigued with the Meadowlands Chenin. Helped by google, I can see it’s an upliftment project of Stellenrust in Stellenbosch, who have some excellent Chenin vineyards, many of them old vines, and headed up by one of the nicest guys in the SA Wine industry!
Neat research Lisa; thank you. The quality of that example ties in with your suggestion about the vineyards available.
Worth remembering that M&S have a permanent offer of 10% off any 4 wines, and I have just noticed that I have a Sparks offer of £5 off a £20 spend on their Classics wine range. You have to select that in the app to make it active. Assume that is for all Sparks card holders, not just me!
And, at last, we can now research their wine range in the comfort of our home. Bit clunky to get there …
From home page of their site: select “Food”; then “Food in Store”; then “wine”. Then you get to a decent page where you can apply various search filters. Note the prices are not shown!
BUT … if you select and save your local store, then it not only shows the prices, but also whether it is stock. So once you get the hang off it, pretty good. And they have a few of their classic range in the very useful half bottle size.
Ah that is helpful Richard. I have relied on the Ocado website for my hyperlinks precisely because the price seems unavailable on the M&S site.
Top tip!
Seems to work much, much better than the Co-op store/ wine finder which used to and still does wind me up!